Does anyone recommend painting/coating the gas tank?
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NYsquarebird58’ (NEW) Tbird
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I've used POR-20 hi-temp exhaust manifold paint in the past on fuel tanks. It's an aluminum/silverish color and looks really good. The tank I got for the T-Bird has a coating from the factory and it's strictly a fair weather car so I didn't bother this time
POR-20® Brilliant Aluminum Heat Resistant Paint #P-2HA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-20-Brill...#ht_2878wt_906
Here’s a few pics of the tank I did for my firebird.
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You're right about the top coat. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light. Over time Sunlight/UV will cause the color to fade, however, UV light will not harm the coating itself. I only top coat the stuff when i know it's going to be routinely exposed to direct sunlight.Comment
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I always ask the question, 'What does the factory do?'
They put a pad between the trunk floor and the tank. But, I think we can do better.
The tank already has a tin coating which lasts many years. The pad deadens sound and gives a cushion. Spray-on truck bed liner does the same thing. It's rubberized, paintable, water tight, and it cushions. While still 'wet', you can brush it into tight spots if need be. I use it on floor pans, too (inside and out). --my two cents. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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I did some more work on the Bird today. I replaced the fuel line that runs from the tank to the pump with a pre-bent stainless steel line I got from Summit Racing. I also removed the fuel pump and the hard line that runs from the pump to the carb. It started to rain, so I’ll finish up next week. All I have left is to install the new fuel pump, replace some rubber fuel lines and fuel filter, put some gas in her and start her up.
The bre-bent line wasn’t perfect. I did have to finesse it a bit to fit, but I just used the old line as a guide. I really can’t complain. I got the tank-to-pump and pump-to-carb lines for around 100 bucks shipped!
Here’s the old fuel pump
Here’s the new fuel pump. I opted to get a regular pump versus the fuel/air pump combo for the windshield wipers. (I plan on converting the wipers to electric in the very near future)
The inlet for the fuel pump is larger than the hard fuel line coming from the tank, so I had to stretch a smaller diameter rubber hose on to the nipple. It went on easy with a dab of dish washing soap
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One thought on the rubber hose.
The new fuels are hard on regular rubber.
Maybe consider something like this:
That is 8mm/.3125". Pretty close to 5/16". I don't know what size your fuel lines are but on the 56 it is 5/16". It is about 5 bucks for 2". It is "Barricade" line which is supposed to be more impervious to the modern fuels.
Just a thought. What say others?
I am looking at doing some fuel line work and this is what looks like a good way to go.Comment
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One thought on the rubber hose.
The new fuels are hard on regular rubber.
Maybe consider something like this:
That is 8mm/.3125". Pretty close to 5/16". I don't know what size your fuel lines are but on the 56 it is 5/16". It is about 5 bucks for 2". It is "Barricade" line which is supposed to be more impervious to the modern fuels.
Just a thought. What say others?
I am looking at doing some fuel line work and this is what looks like a good way to go.
I was wondering what ill effects (if any) gasohol would have on the rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump. I would hope that modern manufacturers of (new) old style fuel pumps would put rubber components that are compatible with today’s fuels. If that diaphragm goes, you got fuel mixing and thinning out your engine oil.Comment
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Good thoughts, Jim. Modern fuel line has been available since before E-85. Modern fuel pressures are about 55-psi, so this is also covered with new standards:
* Designed for conveying gasoline, E-85, diesel, and bio-diesel fuels in cars, trucks, buses, etc.
* Withstands oil, grease, abrasion, and ozone.
* Black Nitrile tube and Nitrile/PVC cover is constructed with a two spiral polyester reinforcement that provides a long, trouble-free service life.
* Exceeds the burst requirements of the SAE30R6 specification.
* Temperature resistance is -40 Degrees F to +212 degrees F.
- Sold in boxes, on spools and cut to length per foot.
Most of the stores sell this stuff but it is a huge overkill for those who need 3-5 psi hose. Five bucks per two feet is steep.
Del-City sells new 5/16" online for ~$1/ft.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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One thing I saw on Tube and read is that this Barricade line cuts down on "permeation" over regular fuel line. It may be just hype but 2' of regular fuel line will allow a gallon of gas to permeate through the line in a year. The Barricade lowers that to 2 Table spoons of vapor a year. So at 5 bucks a gallon for gas, after a year you are money ahead.
This has to do with the CARB (California Air Research Board) stuff on permeation.
I read it on the Internet so it has to be true, Right?Comment
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I was wondering what that large canister looking thingy was at the bottom of the pump. It looks like it screws on, but it sure doesn’t want to screw off. I was thinking it may be a reservoir of some sort to prime the pump next you start the car?
I bet Dave knows.Comment
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That would be my guess also.Attached FilesComment
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Well that makes me even happier. I've got a filter in the pump and an inline filter I'm putting in just before the carb. Thanks for posting Jim!Comment
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I "prolly" would make sure I can get the can off before I installed it.
There may be some kind of lubricant that could be put on those threads to make it easier to get off and on when it is installed . OK so now it's Dave's turn cause I dunno what that would be.Comment
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I had a bear of a time getting the can off this '73 390 FP. The setup looks almost identical to your picture. Finally, I used a small oil filter wrench and a long bar. As the pic shows, the canister butts up against the rubber seal. Only God knows how long mine was on there (probably original).
The wife's Escape uses a small oil filter, and I happen to have a small filter wrench. Even then, I wrapped a rubber 'mat' around the canister twice before pulling on the wrench. To my amazement, nothing dented or misformed.
Rockauto.com sells those cartridge filters and they come with new gaskets (one on the end of the filter element, and the big rubberband for the canister).
Lubrication will be tricky as the threads are always exposed to gasoline. I was just happy to get the **** thing loose.
Yep, that's a new gasket inside the timing cover, siliconed on both sides ready and waiting for me.
I hope the pics help. I'm a little ahead of myself because these new pictures aren't posted on Penelope's 390 Build yet. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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