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  #31  
Old 12-24-2015, 12:26 AM
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Red face Yes, my parts guy told me they use this

Yes, my supplier told me they used these on '64's as well. But I was also told '62/63 used them? I have seen different articles stating so...but in the end, it works just fine. She actually runs a little better. I leaned out the fuel mix just a hair, and reduced the fast engine idle, again, just a hair to learn how all that works, and came up with a setting that seems to let her run quite well.

And, like Erik says below, no more fumes coming from under the car's road draft!
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  #32  
Old 12-24-2015, 12:47 AM
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The 64 has a lot in common with the earlier model (engine color, drum brakes), so it makes sense that the carb spacer would be the same.

The PCV should make the engine run better. It keeps the crankcase under a vacuum which helps to keep the rings seated.

Getting rid of the stink is a huge positive. I've only recently gotten my car running after several years, and although I've owned many old cars in my younger years completely forgot (perhaps more correctly never considered) how much they pollute. Now that I have a house with a basement garage I have spent considerable effort to get mine as clean as possible.
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  #33  
Old 11-24-2017, 10:39 PM
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Default Update to the PCV Thread...

Hi team T-Bird:

Ok, been working on my poor acceleration from a stop, the classic flat spot in the acceleration curve when I hit the gas gently. If I just stomp on it, we seem to get through the gap, but the reality is there is a flat spot. So, per the Shop Manual, I have run most of the checks, and will finish up the check list this week, but what occurred to me was that I did add a PCV spacer beneath my Autolite 4100, and I am wondering if this raising of the carb 1 3/4" may play a role in this issue?

I have essentially rebuilt the carb, with checking my floats as the next, and last, action listed in the manual. Does anyone have any experience with this?

I may restro-fit a 61 PCV set up by running my line into the vacuum port on the manifold, just to the right of the distributor. Just have to find a fitting, but if anyone has any advice, would love to hear about it.

If any additional data needed:

I have set timing to 8 degress BTDC, slightly past the 6 recommended in the manual specs, but within the 0-10 range.

Vacuum is 18Hg spot on, and consistent, no fluctuation.

Tuned to 500RPMs hot, Fast Idle @ 1300rpm hot.

new plugs, wires, pertronix ignition, and flamethrower coil.

replaced my primary and secondary pump diaphrams, power valves, gaskets, etc.....left the floats alone, for now.....sooo, any help is always appreciated...

~g
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  #34  
Old 11-24-2017, 11:22 PM
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I don't think the spacer is your problem. A thick spacer was used from '62-65. If you've replaced the accelerator pump and you have the linkage adjusted properly there may be other causes. How well did you clean the carburetor. Some of the passages are minute and sometimes you need to pass very thin wires through to completely clean them out. Look down the carburetor throat and watch the flow of gas while you pump it. If the fuel doesn't come out of both venturies in a strong straight stream then you have a blockage or it's not adjusted correctly. You may also have leaks around the throttle shaft. Do you know the condition of your timing chain? A worn chain can cause poor acceleration. Adjusting the floats is rather simple using the guide ruler that comes with the carburetor rebuild kit.

John
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  #35  
Old 11-25-2017, 02:18 AM
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Default Good advice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I don't think the spacer is your problem. A thick spacer was used from '62-65. If you've replaced the accelerator pump and you have the linkage adjusted properly there may be other causes. How well did you clean the carburetor. Some of the passages are minute and sometimes you need to pass very thin wires through to completely clean them out. Look down the carburetor throat and watch the flow of gas while you pump it. If the fuel doesn't come out of both venturies in a strong straight stream then you have a blockage or it's not adjusted correctly. You may also have leaks around the throttle shaft. Do you know the condition of your timing chain? A worn chain can cause poor acceleration. Adjusting the floats is rather simple using the guide ruler that comes with the carburetor rebuild kit.

John
Thanks John. Actually I had not passed anything through the passages, and will do that. I did check the throttle shaft and it seems solid, but since I am going to pull the carb off again, I will be certain to check that. It is one of the items on the list in the manual that was on my continued to-do's.

As for the timing chain, I don't know its condition at the moment. I have been thinking this could be a timing issue cuz I think the harmonic balancer is not the original, as it has timing marks on it instead of the plain with a small mark as pictured in the manual. So it is possible that I'm not even at TDC. I ordered a piston stop just the other day as a matter of fact so that I can check that out. It is worth the 7.95 if it helps me get that marked properly. Is there a better way to check the timing chain? I'll look it up in the manual tomorrow as well.
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Last edited by GeoffInCarlsbad : 11-25-2017 at 02:19 AM. Reason: small edit
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  #36  
Old 11-25-2017, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
...A worn chain can cause poor acceleration...
This is due to two factors:
  • Slop. A worn chain can make valve and ignition timing very erratic.
  • Because the chain is worn, the crank timing will lead the cam's original timing by a lot, which now brings the torque curve much higher in the RPM range.
Here is a procedure for checking timing chain slop:
  1. Disconnect your battery with the damper pulley showing your timing marks.
  2. Pull the distributor cap off.
  3. Use a long bar on your crank bolt so you can move it back and forth.
  4. Put your hand on the rotor to feel for any motion while you rock the crank back and forth. Notice how many degrees you can move the crank without distributor motion. This will show how much slop is in your timing chain set.
When your engine was new the timing chain was tight and there was no hesitation from a light. Now, you probably have a good two degrees of crankshaft advance. A new chain set will bring it back. - Dave
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  #37  
Old 11-25-2017, 04:10 PM
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Default Timing Chain

Dave, thanks for the advice. I'll do the test, hoping that's not an issue cuz I am not ready to do that work yet. Fingers crossed! Happy Holidays.

~g
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  #38  
Old 11-26-2017, 05:30 AM
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Timing chain stretch is common with old engines. Some get so sloppy they jump a tooth. This is serious business that can cause very expensive repairs if neglected.

The timing chain housing is located right behind the water pump. A gear puller is required for the damper pulley. The rest of this job requires standard wrenches. Heads and all manifolds do not need to be removed.

This would be an excellent opportunity to degree your crank and cam so you know exactly where valve timing is. - Dave
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  #39  
Old 11-27-2017, 11:27 AM
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Default Can this be done without removing the motor?

Hi Dave:

Can this be done without removing the motor? When I checked the manual, it looks like I would have to remove not just the water pump assembly, but much more. The fan, radiator overflow reservoir, etc.....

~g
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  #40  
Old 11-27-2017, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected
  • Disconnect your battery with the damper pulley showing your timing marks.
  • Pull the distributor cap off.
  • Use a long bar on your crank bolt so you can move it back and forth.
  • Put your hand on the rotor to feel for any motion while you rock the crank back and forth. Notice how many degrees you can move the crank without distributor motion. This will show how much slop is in your timing chain set.
Keep in mind, this value may also include clearance sums in the camshaft drive to distributor driven gears including an end thrust sum in each, and other clearances present within the distributor shaft to housing bushing, distributor main shaft to advance shaft, including rotation & to rotor.

Scott.

Last edited by simplyconnected : 11-27-2017 at 11:26 PM. Reason: to straighten out the quote
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