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  #21  
Old 09-27-2015, 01:03 AM
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The last picture shows brushes but I don't see them in their holders. - Dave
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2015, 01:13 AM
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Default Brushes

HI Dave:

the brushes are attached to the inside of the cylinder by rivets. I cannot remove them.

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1961 Thunderbird Convertible
2008 F-250 Super Duty Diesel Long Bed
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  #23  
Old 09-27-2015, 01:52 AM
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Yes, I understand...
In a SHUNT DC 4-wire motor, one brush is connected to black (ground) and the other brush is fed from the green wire.

In a SERIES DC 3-wire motor, one brush is connected to black (ground) and the other brush is connected to both field windings.

I see the brass-colored brushes dangling in your last picture but they are not in holders. Let's just say that you didn't take a picture of the brushes before you put the motor together.

Did you take resistance measurements of the fields and armature before closing it up? You may just have a dirt problem. - Dave
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  #24  
Old 10-02-2015, 12:02 AM
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Talking It's done...

I don't have any new pics to post, as you can see most of what I will talk about in the pictures already provided. Also, I apologize in advance if my terminology is not quite correct.



I ordered a new motor from a local catalog. I sometimes use a local guy and/or 3 or 4 other catalogs that all had the motor for the same money. I just wasn't smart enough to try to repair the old motor. I originally tried the larger front door motor, which I was told would work, but I could not get it to fit properly into the body cavity, and I did not want to mess with the integrity of the area. Therefore, I opted for the correctly sized motor. Personal choice.

As a prep, I plugged in the motor and tried it from the door switch. Worked fine in both directions.

Step 1: was to put the Regulator back in place. I manually wound the gear to bring the swing arm on the regulator to about mid-level. I also had removed the vertical slide. I put the regulator back into the body cavity, and aligned the window-roller into its groove at the bottom of the window.

I had my wife hold the window in place for me, as I needed 2 hands to manipulate the regulator.

Step 2: Attach the motor to the regulator. The motor I ordered had bushings inserted into the bolt holes, and those bushings did not fit into the regulator mount; so I simply removed them, and re-inserted the mounting bolts. The mounting nuts were not 3/8", but 6mm. But that's neither here nor there. I got it on and tightened them down properly.


Step 3: I put the outward facing (short end) roller into the window groove. and pushed the regulator into position (done it Step 1 but it slid out). I put the vertical slide into place after inserting the roller into it. It was much easier doing that then trying to put that roller into the slide already attached to the body. It went much easier once I figured that out.

Step 4: . I inserted the top-left bolt first, and then the bottom right to get everything properly aligned.

Step 5: After tightening everything by hand, I tested the window and lo and behold, up she went, then down, then back up, then back down. That was using the door switch.

My hands were too dirty and it was hot in the garage, so I will put the trim back on tomorrow during the day, and test the trim switch. It should work fine, and now I have a nice, working power window.

This took awhile. I don't know how those line workers did it in less than 90 seconds! I took me 90 minutes to figure it all out!

Next Day:

I hooked the motor up to the rear switch and it works great. Re-installed all the trim, etc. Good as now.
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Last edited by GeoffInCarlsbad : 10-02-2015 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Grammatical correction.
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