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  #11  
Old 09-04-2015, 12:37 AM
toddgilroy toddgilroy is offline
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Me and Dave talked Monday night about this but I thought I would give a quick update.

Called the restoration shop Monday morning (the machine shop hasn't even entered the picture yet) and when I explained the cylinders were already bored to .060 over he just said, "Oh wow!. I have another one here you can have whenever you want to come get it. It is still the original bore but it doesn't have the manifold, heads, timing chain..."

Other than a little surface corrosion in one cylinder this "new" one appears to be in pretty good shape. So I ended up with 2 390s, minus a manifold, timing chain and a pair of heads, for $300.

Just about have this second one torn down and hope to get it to the machine shop for a bath and magnaflux tomorrow.
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2015, 03:48 AM
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Yep, that's what I'm talkin' about... you simply want an old and tired 390 with good castings. Everything that moves will be replaced.

As soon as they tank your parts and it passes the magnaflux test, it's a 'go'. If it doesn't pass magnaflux, don't spend another cent on that casting.

I'm glad they are working with you. From the looks of the last engine, there are many parts that are new so you might carry them over. All the bolts and hardware are there, too.

When you strip the block to 'bare', remove all the core plugs and pipe plugs. Put 'brass plugs' on your shopping list. If you cannot get pipe plugs out, let the machine shop do it. I use heat on mine. Sometimes I weld a nut to the plug, and turn it out while hot. The threads are National Pipe Threads. I usually pull small plugs out then thread the holes for a pipe plug. Sometimes excessive oil surges can push a welch plug out but not a pipe plug.

When you take pictures of an oil hole, you want to see all the way through the block so cleaning rods can clear all the way through before the block is washed. This hole oils all the lifters on the LH side:

This is the back of the cam, an area exposed to the flex plate where pipe plugs hold much better than smooth plugs.


Take lots of pictures. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 09-12-2015, 12:08 AM
toddgilroy toddgilroy is offline
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Got word today that second 390 block checked out fine and I will start discussing plans with Chuck Willard at Willard Auto Machine (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...-engine-build/) next week. I am not gonna pull the trigger on ordering much until I talk more with him, but here is a start to my shopping list. I am looking for a smooth-running, reliable engine that is still has some "fun" in it. I want to be able to hop drive it around town or hit the highway/interstate without worry. Shooting for a compression ratio in the low 9's.

Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold 2105
Edelbrock Performer RPM Cylinder Heads 60069
Edelbrock Performer Plus Camshaft & Lifter Kit 2106
Edelbrock Performer Carburetor 1406
Keith Black Hypereutectic Pistons KB150-030

Thoughts?

Thanks
Todd
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  #14  
Old 09-12-2015, 12:29 PM
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At first, the cam had me scared because of the Advertised Intake Duration: 272 and Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282 degrees. This is too wild for the service you want. Upon closer examination, Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 194 and Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 degrees.

Duration of 282 (advertised) is a far cry from the real 204 degrees. Lifter height is hovering right around 1/2", which is good, but Edelbrock allows an extra 1/10" that you can sink the valves if you use different ratio (1.6:1) rocker arms. So, all is good and you have options.

Add a set of Hastings MOLY (+.030") piston rings to this shopping list.

A word of caution regarding your engine builder... It's a nice article about how he sleeved a Pontiac 350. GM-type builders typically fail building Ford FE engines because they are so different. The Pontiac 326/350/389/400 engines are similar to small block Chevy engines, having two exhaust ports in the middle of the head. Oiling is totally different. I almost feel more comfy if you built this engine yourself after all the machining and balancing is done. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 09-12-2015, 04:00 PM
toddgilroy toddgilroy is offline
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Yeah, I had originally ignored this cam because of the advertised duration, but after doing some reading and research about duration, lift, lobe, etc., and talking to and Edelbrock tech, the more I liked this combination. He essentially helped me put together a package for a street 390 similar to their Power Packages and Top End Kits.

I think the machine shop will be good. He does all the FE work for that restoration shop/classic car dealer where I got the 390. They said Willard has rebuilt 30-40 FEs for them and they won't take them anywhere else. I also like the fact Chuck said they will do as much as I ask them to do, from by the piece to full rebuild/dyno test/break-in.

I do plan on doing as much of the assembly work as I can, but will need lots of help along the way...and I know I can get it right here on this forum.

Thanks!
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  #16  
Old 09-12-2015, 08:36 PM
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You will need a;
good bench grinder,
valve spring compressor,
air compressor,
feeler gauges,
a decent torque wrench,
degree wheel (get a paper one from the internet and paste it onto cardboard or metal,
piston stop (you can make one from an old spark plug that fits your new heads. Gut the spark plug and weld a 1/2" X 1-1/4"piece of round stock.)
mechanical oil pressure gauge,
1/4"-20 tap set and
a die grinder with a burr.

In order to weight-match your pistons and rods you will need a good scale (up to three pounds). The best scale is a 'balance beam' with graduations in grams. Pistons are supposed to be matched to two grams (but they rarely are). I bring my parts to within 1/2gm. Con rods need to be weight-matched on each end separately because the crank pin end runs circular and the piston end runs in a linear motion.

Call Edelbrock and ask them what distributor gear will work with their cam.

You can start by cleaning and inspecting parts, like your rocker arm assemblies. Take plenty of pictures before dis-assembly, during cleaning, and after assembly. - Dave
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My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

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--Lee Iacocca

Last edited by simplyconnected : 09-13-2015 at 05:39 AM.
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