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  #11  
Old 02-14-2015, 06:13 PM
toddgilroy toddgilroy is offline
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Thanks for the tips, Dave. I got the rear one out but am still struggling with the one towards the front. I am going to let the PB soak for a while and try it again...and using a longer bolt helps to keep pushing it out once you get it started.
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2015, 12:48 AM
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Todd, suspension work is **** hard, requires big tools and is not a job for the weak (as you already know). Keep at it and you will get the bolt out. Once you do, remove all the rust so it doesn't fuse together again the next time your car splashes water.

Those bolts are available at some of the vendors but they are very expensive. I always reuse my old ones because they don't wear out.

Be careful because this work can hurt you badly. Follow your Shop Manual for proper assembly and setup procedures. - Dave
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Old 02-15-2015, 03:25 PM
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Well, I won that battle...sort of. Worked the lower arm off the stuck shaft by sliding it off and under the crossmember. Can someone tell me if the shaft in the 2nd photo is supposed to come out?
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File Type: jpg Lower Arm.jpg (48.3 KB, 161 views)
File Type: jpg Stuck Bastard.jpg (46.6 KB, 161 views)
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2015, 07:39 PM
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Yes, the shaft will come out, not an easy task. Be careful if you hammer on the end, it is quite easy to deform the threads.
Carl
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2015, 12:16 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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I did not have to remove it on my '58 when I rebuilt the front end. The TRL has great pictures and info for rebuilding the front end

The only thing I can say is it's hard work but the drive will be worth it when done
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:36 PM
The Arkansas Traveler The Arkansas Traveler is offline
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Default Brass for the beating

I keep all sorts of brass around the shop. I use it between the hammer and the object of my cursing. The result is less damage to the parts that I care about. I also keep it around the drill press for shimming and backing a hole if need. I go to the local metal scrap yard and ask to purchase some brass. They give me an escort and we go to the brass room and I pick-out what I want and make the purchase by the pound. Brass is expensive, and can be easly pocketed, so do not be offended if they give you an escort.They trust no one. If a bolt has to be struck on the thread end, put the nut back on it and strike the nut instead of the threads. Old timers know this, but I thought the newbies might could use the tip. over and out.
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:46 PM
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A very cheap substitute for brass is wood. I keep small pieces around my drill press vice to hold up the piece I'm working on while I drill through it.

Small pieces of 2X4 work well for backing up components I'm pounding on.

For replacing bushings in 'A' arms, I use a 2" pipe nipple for 'A' arm backup and a big 2-pound hammer to drive the bushings out. - Dave
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:40 AM
toddgilroy toddgilroy is offline
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When I took the first front spring out, it was dirty & rusty, but intact, so I was wondering if the new springs I purchased were an unnecessary expenditure. Then I took the driver side spring out tonight, which confirmed I had made the right call.
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File Type: jpg Left Spring.jpg (53.0 KB, 106 views)
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:40 AM
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Quite the pot-hole. Your on your way to that low-rider that you have always wanted to build.
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Old 02-19-2015, 09:22 PM
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Tenacity pays off. Todd, you're a good man.
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