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  #11  
Old 09-19-2014, 03:38 PM
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Dave, don't worry about stretch because everything stretches, together.

I would be concerned about using clay or putty. Engine building must not involve 'slop'. You need exact, honest measurements that you can depend on.

Measure using the components your engine really has. Do not assume things you read are correct, either. I have found Ford manuals to be wrong, even on torque spec's.

The reason I built the 390 was not because I needed one but because documentation for building an FE is sparse at best. I have documented starter motors, generators, and just about every engine part, to share this info-pictorial for free. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 09-20-2014, 07:32 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Well it's all back together and running. I ran it without the valve covers to see that it was oiling nicely everywhere. Boy does that header paint smoke at first. My wrapped headers were getting a little tattered so I snugged them up and then sprayed a complete can of header (clear) paint on them to act as a hardener - soaked them thoroughly.
Anyway, I just put the valve covers back on so I need to let it set until tomorrow. I'll take it for a spin then.

Thx for all the help. They'll be no hotrodding until I get a rev limiter!

Dave J
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  #13  
Old 09-21-2014, 12:23 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Keep an eye on that rtv blue. I think it's too soft for that application. My engine builder recommended grey because its much harder. Black is between blue and grey with respect to hardness.

I'm curious as to your experience with running with the valve covers off. FEs tend to flood the valve train with oil and I can only imagine it going everywhere.

I've gone to lengths to reduce the flow to the heads and still got leaks on the valve covers with cork gaskets. I replaced with Edelebrock composite gaskets, spreader bars on the lower bolts and finally got them sealed.
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2014, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
...I've gone to lengths to reduce the flow to the heads and still got leaks on the valve covers with cork gaskets. I replaced with Edelebrock composite gaskets, spreader bars on the lower bolts and finally got them sealed.
How are you reducing flow to the heads?
Sealing valve covers has never posed a problem for me. I'm using cork right now from Fel-Pro.
Make sure your surfaces are oil-free, like it says in the book. Then, use your finger to 'work in' a very thin coat of 'black' RTV to each surface. (If any oil exists, RTV won't stick.) I also coat the cork gasket, then I let it skin over for ten minutes before assembly. I do the oil pan the same way. Works every time. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2014, 08:26 AM
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I inserted 0.075" orifice restrictors in the oil galleries at each head. So the block gets full pressure and the heads get a reduced pressure.

"Gluing" the cork with rtv works also. But for these covers I prefer to not glue to make inspection and adjustment, and of course reuse of the gaskets, a lot easier.

The OE sheet metal covers can't be torqued to OE spec without distorting them. I straighten the covers on the bench over a wood block with a soft hammer. The torque to the spreader bars fully deflecting. Its probably less than half of the OE spec. Edelbrock designed these composite gaskets to seal with reduced pressure.
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2014, 11:35 AM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Steve, I did use gray.
As for the open valve train this was my first experience, and you are correct. Some oil did run out and pooled in the header wrap, it took a while to burn off!

I used gray on the valve covers too, and just barely cinch them down. They bend real easy so I use a good amount of sealer and very light on the bolts. Then let it dry good and long. So far so good.

Dave J
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  #17  
Old 09-21-2014, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
I inserted 0.075" orifice restrictors in the oil galleries at each head. So the block gets full pressure and the heads get a reduced pressure.

"Gluing" the cork with rtv works also. But for these covers I prefer to not glue to make inspection and adjustment, and of course reuse of the gaskets, a lot easier.

The OE sheet metal covers can't be torqued to OE spec without distorting them. I straighten the covers on the bench over a wood block with a soft hammer. The torque to the spreader bars fully deflecting. Its probably less than half of the OE spec. Edelbrock designed these composite gaskets to seal with reduced pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij View Post
...I used gray on the valve covers too, and just barely cinch them down. They bend real easy so I use a good amount of sealer and very light on the bolts...
You guys should clean the bolts, 'oil free' and use blue Loctite on the threads. There is no need to drive them all the way down, my Y-blocks have two nuts at the very top of each valve cover dome. Being solid lifter, they need adjustment periodically. I never had a leak issue and I don't allow the nuts to crush the covers. I even had them chromed...



Notice, there are NO bolts around the flange at all. I use cork Fel-Pro gaskets with Permatex black. So far, I have pulled the covers off three times using the same gaskets:

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  #18  
Old 09-22-2014, 02:59 PM
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Your valve covers on the Y block are a nice design, and completely different than the FE covers. The FEs are notorious for leaks from the valve covers. Easy enough to seal, but cork by itself won't do it.
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