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  #11  
Old 03-28-2014, 10:44 PM
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Thanks Dave

The fellow at the machine shop said he could build up the valleys in the seal area so that he didn't have to take the rest of the manifolds down so much. He said he was already taking off the factory casting numbers with where he was - which wasn't a problem - but said even if he went all the way down against the center of the manifold there would still be a little unsurfaced area in the seal according to what he measured.

That one inner seal area would get better with more surfacing but the outer edges won't widen any - there is no more metal out there. That's another area he said he thought he could weld to and build up to make the surface wider but like you mentioned - he thought they would be fine as is.

Think I'll just cross my fingers and go for it. If it doesn't work I'll see if I can better my last engine pull time of 5 1/2 hours by myself. It's just so much fun and I've got nothing better to do

Eric
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2014, 10:37 PM
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2 1/2 hours this morning. Sandblasted the manifolds and painted then re-installed (yes I did tape off the newly machined seal areas). Looked great although after sand blasting I did find a crack in one of the mounting tabs at the base. Went ahead and drilled it out and welded it. Probably won't last. If I do this again I'm getting a set of headers - PERIOD - tired of the cast manifolds.



Engine went in without much fight - hardest part is getting the darn flywheel and torq converter lined up. That A/C plenum holds the transmission down just far enough that the engine mounts get in the way when you try to push the engine back into place. Oh well - at least it finally went in - just laying there - needs to be bolted in and all accessories put back on.

I need to get another fender protector . Lucky it was just a brass button on my jeans and will wax out.



No car fun this afternoon - had to clean up early for a percussion band concert - but it was cool.
I'll update the thread when I get it all back together and running. Probably be next weekend though.......

Eric

edit - oh - did find that the '64 heads are a bit longer than the '60's on the original engine. Didn't have a chance to measure them but the manifolds on the original engine go outer edge to outer edge. With these replacement manifolds from another 1960 engine on the '64 heads there is about 1/8 inch space on both ends. Couldn't measure the exhaust port distances (which are probably the same) because I still have the original manifolds bolted to my original engine.
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2014, 10:55 PM
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More fun.....had a day off this week so decided to try and finish the Tbird to see how those exhaust manifolds work.

But first.......

Rebuilt my fuel pump about 15 years ago. Never had been sure the seals in it would stand up to the ethanol in fuels these days so figured I would rebuild it while the engine was out. Last time it took me about an hour and had never rebuilt one before - fairly simple. This time it took about 4 hours .
Biggest problem is you are told to file off the metal that has been braded and holding the washers and seals in place. That's not the bad part - then you are supposed to re-brad your washers and seals back on there with half the metal it had originally. (the kit years ago already had the seals on new shafts - just swapped them out - easy). I finally decided to drill a small hole in what was left of the top of the original shaft and hold the seal and washer in with a cotter pin with loctite (topped off with JB Weld) rather than try and re-brad with the small amount of metal that was left. Still not really convinced it will last. The kit seemed to be good quality though otherwise.

Dead camera so didn't get any fuel pump pics - DANG IT - almost decided to see if the camera could fly. After lunch I picked up some new batts.

On to the rest - just as I was tightening down one of the last bolts - it broke off in the intake manifold. Decided it was time to quit for the day. Wasn't very tight at all so hopefully it will just come right out - oh wait - what am I thinking - we're talking about my car and my luck - so guess I'll probably end up having to drill it out and install a helicoil.




Also decided to add my 1972 Ford Thunderbird flex fan. D2VY8600A The A/C style fan has been cooling great but is a bit noisy at high rpm on the interstate. Thought the flex fan might quiten it down a bit and still keep me cool in traffic. Have to use a Summit Racing #876 - 2 inch spacer. Only leaves about 1 inch between the radiator and front of the fan and 3/4 inch clearance between the back of the blades and expansion tank.

All 3 fans for comparison - original, A/C and 72 Tbird. (left to right)


Originally black - painted it white like the original then installed it...


Why don't I paint that tank? Well.....it's original and I like it



Eric
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2014, 06:19 PM
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C4AE G heads are off a 427 low riser the valves are much bigger but the ports are the same. You have some great heads.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2014, 09:24 PM
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Thanks Pirate - that's good to know.

As an update - I finally got it all back together. The broken bolt only took about 15 min to pick out - it was in fact loose in the manifold so just used a screwdriver and tapped it out until I could get a hold on it with some needle nose pliers. Maybe my luck is changing.

Runs nicely again - no exhaust leaks!!! Guess we'll see if this lasts more than 1K miles - meanwhile I'll be researching headers because I don't have much confidence in the manifold that I had to weld the crack in the mounting tab.

My newly installed 72 Tbird flex fan SUCKS !!!!

No really - I had these black flecks all over the fenders after I cranked it up. Couldn't figure out where they came from - thought it was the original black fan paint under the white paint I used - nope. Then I realized half the paint had been pulled off the back side of the radiator fins Sure forces a bunch more air at idle which will help with the A/C.

Only had it up to about 60 mph one time but it sounded much better. We'll have to see how it does on the 2 hour interstate drives I usually make. The fan might not be as loud but will it still cool when it's "flexed".

Got a short video of it in action but I'll have to figure out how to link to it.

Eric
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