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  #31  
Old 09-09-2013, 05:21 PM
Justinryanh Justinryanh is offline
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You guys are tremendously helpful. Thank you so much! The pulley only had surface rust that I was able to remove and then coated with engine enamel. Looks much better!

Quick question. What are your thoughts on spot spraying exposed metal with self etching primer until I get around to painting the car? Will that at least stop the rust from progressing? My current plan is starting mechanical, then suspension, electrical, interior and finally exterior. Rust is very light, or surface only, I just don't want it to progress before I get that far
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  #32  
Old 09-09-2013, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinryanh View Post
Quick question. What are your thoughts on spot spraying exposed metal with self etching primer until I get around to painting the car? Will that at least stop the rust from progressing? My current plan is starting mechanical, then suspension, electrical, interior and finally exterior. Rust is very light, or surface only, I just don't want it to progress before I get that far
Any bare metal should definitely be coated with self etching Primer. However you need to completely remove the surface rust or it will come right back through the primer.

John
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  #33  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:42 PM
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Can I just use 60 grit, rough sand it for the time being, light coat in SE primer and leave it be until I come back to do the body and paint?
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  #34  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:52 PM
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I would only use the lowest grit necessary to remove the rust. 60 grit will leave a lot of service scratches that will have to be removed before final painting. It's really up to you how much sanding you want to do now compared to later.

John
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  #35  
Old 11-24-2013, 11:57 AM
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Ok, sorry for the delay. Engine made it back in after cleanup, replacements and repaint. While it was out I cleaned up and painted to engine compartment as well. 180 degrees out upon initial reinstall, but fixed that in short order. The clicking sound was FIXED. Running well and no more click. It did end up being the starter.

It is running and rolling but rebuilding and bleeding the front brake calipers today so I can actually take it for a test drive. Also, wanting to replace the shocks, but the new upper bushings don't seem to fit the available thread at the top of the new shocks. What gives?
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  #36  
Old 11-24-2013, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinryanh View Post
... the new upper bushings don't seem to fit the available thread at the top of the new shocks. What gives?
Justin, the rubber bushings are standard size for practically all shocks.

There were occasions where I had to cut down a rubber bushing because it was too tall, but that's rare. Make sure you put the little 'nubs' facing each other as they mate with the shock tower. Oh, and don't wrench the nut down too much. The bushings are supposed to 'give' a little as the shock goes up and down. - Dave
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Old 12-08-2013, 01:39 PM
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Thanks Dave! I got distracted from the shock issue, but on a sidenote, the threads are definetely not long enough.... should I have to press the bottom bushings all the way through past the top of shock threads? Anyway, this is back burner stuff now.

I am having a serious problem and I am hoping that it is something stupid I am overlooking.

About a week ago, I took the car for the longest drive I have since I got it, about 5 miles. During the drive there was a mist of coolant that sprayed on the windshield causing me to have to drive with my head out the window. When I got out I found that the "cap" over the radiator overflow was basically a rubber vacuum line plug with a metal strap on it and the end had basically degraded to the point it was allowing hot coolant to spray out the end. The entire engine compartment had been sprayed with coolant.

At this point, I decided that the radiator could really use an overflow container, so I purchased and added one. Easy fix to at least catch the coolant from that line when the system because too pressurized. I also replaced the cap with a 13lb brand new one, just in case). Now.... the car wont start. Nothing, no click, no whoosh, no lights in the interior, no attempt to turn. IF, I connect a remote start trigger to the S and + terminals on the solenoid it will start, but immediately stop running when I release the trigger. Also, I connected my truck to it and tried to jumpstart, this did the trick after sitting with my truck running and revving for 5 minutes or so, but died after about 5 seconds. So... I thought ignition switch, replaced it, and no that didnt do the trick. I thought battery, had it checked, it needed a charge. I charged it and Whew, thought I found the problem... nope! Still nothing at all from the key.

I have tried checking the solenoid, but not sure if that would cause no power anywhere with the key? Wouldn't I also still get a click or something? Or is everything on a 66 dependent upon that solenoid? Another note, the spray of coolant all over the car gave a nice soaking to the connectors on the voltage regulator and the connection on the 2 wires coming back from the neutral safety switch @ the trans.

If anyone can provide any help on this, it would be tremendously appreciated. Maybe this is a new thread entirely??

Justin
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  #38  
Old 12-08-2013, 03:46 PM
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Justin, use the same 'stack' of washers and rubber bushings that came off of the old shocks. New ones are the same.

If you don't have lights, a basic wire check from the Headlight Switch back to the Starter Solenoid should reveal the problem.

Antifreeze (and DOT-3 brake fluid) are glycol-based and as such, they dissolve in plain water. I would give the engine bay a good rinse with the garden hose and let it dry before trying to start or closing the hood.

Before throwing any more parts at the problem, prove your components to be bad. If you don't you will end up with a basket of good parts that you cannot use or return.

All your electrical connections are plug-in so do your continuity checks and look closely inside plug/receptacle connections along the way. - Dave
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