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  #11  
Old 12-01-2013, 06:06 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij View Post
I thought of tht too Joe, so I pulled the number one plug, stuffed a rag in there and bumped the starter till TDC. Then I looked at the timing and found it to be right on.

Can having the dizzy one tooth off cause that?
What did that prove?

Distributor teeth have nothing to do with damper pulley timing marks and neither does cam timing.

Screw a Piston Stop in ether #1 or #6 spark plug hole and turn the crank by hand one way until it stops, mark your pulley, then turn it the opposite way until it stops and mark your damper pulley again. True TDC is exactly between your marks on the pulley.

What you did with the wad of paper only showed #1 is somewhere on its power stroke. You really need to know where true TDC is, then where the cam is, and where the distributor is, based on your damper pulley @TDC.

You have seen other posts where I went through this procedure. Yours engine is no different. If your crank-to-cam ting is off, normally the engine won't start or run. If the distributor gear is off, the vacuum pancake usually hits something and cannot be rotated enough. Your engine runs, but you can go through and re-check all the timing at any time. At the very least, you should know where true TDC is. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2013, 06:54 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Yeah, I didn't explain that very well Dave. I had been turning the crank by hand to try and get the distributor shaft back on the oil shaft and got side tracked by a neighbor offering advice. Then helped him move a dresser and forgot where I was. I wanted to make sure I was on TDC and not 180 degrees off. When it popped out as I bumped the motor I knew I was on the up stroke of the compression. Then I use a piece of rigid wire and turn the crank with one hand and feel the wire rise and drop until I know I am at TDC. I then looked at my marks and I was right on.

thx, Dave J
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2013, 06:54 PM
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You are getting too hung up on the timing at high rpm. The only thing to be concerned with is the timing at idle. If you have the timing at 11 degrees at idle with the vacuum unplugged then you are about as far advanced as you can go without risking major pinging and hard starting when hot.

Tuning the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge is easy. Just try to get the idle as low as possible where the car will run smooth. 700-750 is fine. Then turn one mixture screw clockwise until the engine starts to miss; then turn counter clockwise until you reach the highest vacuum. Then turn clockwise again until the vacuum just begins to drop. Reset the idle speed if it drops too low. Then do the other mixture screw. Then reset your idle speed.

John
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2013, 07:24 PM
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You should not be past 38* all in. And again are you using ported vacuum ? If you are and it increases timing 14* at idle, your throttle blades are open too much.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2013, 09:22 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Thx Gents, I think you're spot on John. I'm getting too hung up on the high RPM part. It accelerates nice and smooth and doesn't miss at all. I'll adjust the idle settings with vacuum next weekend. I'll also double check my vacuum port.

thx, Dave J
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2013, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij View Post
Thx Gents, I think you're spot on John. I'm getting too hung up on the high RPM part. It accelerates nice and smooth and doesn't miss at all. I'll adjust the idle settings with vacuum next weekend. I'll also double check my vacuum port.

thx, Dave J
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2013, 12:24 AM
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Thx Tom, I had followed the Edelbrock install CD and done it wrong, ran like crap. The full vacuum works TONS better.

thx again, Dave J
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