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  #11  
Old 03-30-2013, 08:43 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Here is text describing booster theory and testing-

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

Your Shop Manual should also have a detailed testing sequence. Your first step is to insure you have the correct vacuum signal at the manifold fitting (17HG and above).

Are you wanting this BIRD to just be a nice driver or are you more concerned about correct appearance?
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2013, 11:33 AM
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Ian M Greer Ian M Greer is offline
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Scott, your 63 -bird comes with hydraulic wipers if you look at your power steering box you will see hydraulic hoses running up to the centre of your firewall , intern connecting to a hydraulic wiper motor tucked in the front sill with the wiper arm linkage. this gives you a variable speed wiper action ( new for 63 ) . As for the hose that goes through the firewall , the heating system has vacumn controlled damper doors , controlled by your heating control set-up knobs in the dash . Scott as a new-comer I might suggest you purchase the 62 with the 63 supplement shop manuals ( you need the two together). These are available in printed form or you can purchase them on CD ( better idea as you can print off any section your working on and grease up that page all you want and dispose of it when your done, rather than grease up the printed manuals perminent ) Ian M Greer (REMEMBER NOT ALL BIRDS FLY SOUTH)
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2013, 01:57 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Here is text describing booster theory and testing-

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

Your Shop Manual should also have a detailed testing sequence. Your first step is to insure you have the correct vacuum signal at the manifold fitting (17HG and above).

Are you wanting this BIRD to just be a nice driver or are you more concerned about correct appearance?
Thanks for that link. The troubleshooting there is much more detailed than what I've found in my manual.

I just want this car to run and drive nicely. It's not too far from it, I think, and just needs a few things sorted out.
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2013, 02:03 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian M Greer View Post
Scott, your 63 -bird comes with hydraulic wipers if you look at your power steering box you will see hydraulic hoses running up to the centre of your firewall , intern connecting to a hydraulic wiper motor tucked in the front sill with the wiper arm linkage. this gives you a variable speed wiper action ( new for 63 ) . As for the hose that goes through the firewall , the heating system has vacumn controlled damper doors , controlled by your heating control set-up knobs in the dash . Scott as a new-comer I might suggest you purchase the 62 with the 63 supplement shop manuals ( you need the two together). These are available in printed form or you can purchase them on CD ( better idea as you can print off any section your working on and grease up that page all you want and dispose of it when your done, rather than grease up the printed manuals perminent ) Ian M Greer (REMEMBER NOT ALL BIRDS FLY SOUTH)
Thanks for the info on the wipers and heater Ian. I do have the manual and supplement, I just hadn't looked closely at the wipers since they're not my main concern at the moment.
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2013, 03:23 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ickaber View Post

I just want this car to run and drive nicely. It's not too far from it, I think, and just needs a few things sorted out.
In that case, you might want to consider an electric choke that will negate the fitting of hot air tubes.

- http://www.holley.com/45-226.asp

Also, the engine will most likely be fine as long as it has good compression, oil pressure and no leakages.
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  #16  
Old 03-30-2013, 09:15 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
In that case, you might want to consider an electric choke that will negate the fitting of hot air tubes.
I've been considering that, but thought that if I could just hook up what's there it might be okay. On the other hand, the electric choke is only a few dollars more than the hot air choke tube kit.

Are there any performance or other considerations to take into account between hot air and electric chokes? I just want the car to start smoothly, so whatever accomplishes that is okay by me. Having no choke at all at the moment, I just have to pump the gas a lot to get it started, and then keep it revved for a couple of minutes until it warms up a little bit. So the bar for performance is pretty low. It also helps that we've had pretty warm weather lately, by Pacific Northwest standards.
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2013, 01:46 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Actually, the OEM hot air choke will work better, especially in cold ambient air re-starts.

The tubes will have to be fashioned from a universal kit. The insulation (white) on the hot tube is available. Is the choke mechanism functional or just adjusted to constant off?
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  #18  
Old 04-02-2013, 12:12 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Now, measure between your marks.
The 352 has a stroke = 3.5"
The 390 has a stroke = 3.78" That's a quarter inch longer.

Generally speaking, if your marks are anything more than 3-1/2" apart, you have a 390.
I finally got around to measuring yesterday and my marks came out dead on 4". So even assuming some margin of error in my measurement, it seems that I'm likely over the 3.5" mark.

Last edited by Ickaber : 04-02-2013 at 02:04 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-02-2013, 07:02 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Actually, the OEM hot air choke will work better, especially in cold ambient air re-starts.

The tubes will have to be fashioned from a universal kit. The insulation (white) on the hot tube is available. Is the choke mechanism functional or just adjusted to constant off?
Two universal kits at only $9.99 each, plus better performance...I think I've found my solution. I'll let you know how it goes after I get them connected.

As always, thanks much.
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  #20  
Old 04-26-2013, 04:09 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Your first step is to insure you have the correct vacuum signal at the manifold fitting (17HG and above).
Well, I got waylaid by the detent plate replacement. I know, it shouldn't take that long, but I got it all apart one evening and needed something or other that I didn't have before I could put it back, and the next thing I knew it was two weeks later.

I finally got time, and a vacuum tester, so just checked and have 18 Hg at the end of the hose that would connect to the booster check valve. Next I'll pull the check valve and test it. Hopefully, it won't take another two weeks.
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