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  #21  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:00 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Originally Posted by DKheld View Post

Yeah - I agree - 90 amps for $400 is definitely on the steep side but that is an easy way to add 60 amps - not cheap - but easy. PowerGEN even has one that has a generator warning lamp terminal now.

Seems there should be an electric fan that would operate well under the 90 amp range. My '79 MG had dual electric fans and a whimpy 43 amp Lucas alternator - but not going with an electric fan - trying to stay closer to original look so not really an issue for my build.
If one went with an electric fan (I am a big fan of this - but not correct for a restoration or period correct appearance) one would have to ascertain the AMP draw and allow for that (plus AMP draw for the rest of the electrical system).

Quote:
It's a combination of mounting bracket, adjuster bracket and lack of space. Looks like there is a lot of room down low but there is just not. One problem you can't avoid is that the alternator all has to be in a certain small area for the dual v belts to align properly on the pulley (front to back) miss the block, A-Arm and battery holder but still have some adjustment room (side to side).

It would probably be easier to use something like a 360/390 truck bracket. Move it all up high as in the other pic but that doesn't stay with the original look and as Gary mentions not all the holes are present on the older 352 block to add the different brackets.

This winter I was hoping to find an easy bolt on bracket and alternator combo that I could post for the group. I had time to look but now that spring is here I'm ready to get mine back on the road so I'll shelf the idea for later. (was intended for those who can't weld but want the upgrade).

Eric
Eric,

I can shoot you info on the early low mount and what you will need if desired.

There are also several versions of the 1G ALT. What is yours off of (any Stamping I.D. Nos.)?
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2013, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
If one went with an electric fan (I am a big fan of this - but not correct for a restoration or period correct appearance) one would have to ascertain the AMP draw and allow for that (plus AMP draw for the rest of the electrical system).
You know that's a good question. I never have checked it so I did. Ignition on, headlights on bright, brake lights on, interior light on, A/C blower fan on high, radio on. About the only thing electrical not on were the horns and lighter.

Dropshots has ben pretty lousy lately so if the pic doesn't show up it's 24.7 amps total draw.


and this is the bracket and clearance



Eric

Last edited by DKheld : 04-23-2013 at 07:38 PM.
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  #23  
Old 04-23-2013, 07:55 PM
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Eric,

It looks like you are using the same generic adapter bracket for your alternator as I am. Mine seems to have a lot of flex to it and I have trouble keeping the belt tight. I'm using the long bracket from the water pump with an extension piece to the bottom hole on the alternator. How do you have yours mounted and do you have any trouble with it staying tight.

John
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  #24  
Old 04-23-2013, 08:45 PM
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John,
It's an Arlington Products LLC bracket. Glad you mentioned the flex - had planned on getting it set then welding it together to eliminate the bolts just to make it look better. It came with 3/8 bolts to mount to the 7/16 holes of the original generator bracket. That's the first thing I modified - drilled the brackets out to 7/16 - seemed to make it a bit more stable.

I had also planned to install a small piece on the end of my adjuster bracket coming from the water pump mount so that it would clear the fan on the alternator better.

Couldn't tell you about the belts staying tight - it was all just a project so haven't run it with the bracket yet. Gary is sending me some info that may be a better solution then the universal bracket and I may be re-thinking all of it when I get back to the Alternator conversion this winter.

As a temporary solution I will be installing a new 40 amp generator to get me through the summer. No mods except a spacer and longer bolt on the back bracket because the 40 amp generator is a bit longer.

Eric
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  #25  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
You know that's a good question. I never have checked it so I did. Ignition on, headlights on bright, brake lights on, interior light on, A/C blower fan on high, radio on. About the only thing electrical not on were the horns and lighter...
Now, do all that for hours on end in a cruise at idle speed. That's what the Woodward Dream Cruise is. 1.5M people come from all over (including many beautiful cars and their owners from Canada). Motels require renting for the whole week, not just Saturday (the official cruise day) and Sunday. Woodward Avenue is four lanes on each side with a grassy boulevard in the middle (where all the cops hang out). People bring their own canopy and chairs, and set them up days in advance, lining the street on both sides for ten miles. Yes, it's crazy but free and a lot of fun. The pizza places will deliver to your car out in the middle of the road.

For folks coming in from Florida and California, they find a motel stay for a week is right up their alley.

CLICK HERE to check out the Woodward Dream Cruise. It happens every year in the 3rd week(end) in Aug. Check out the gallery but this is mostly what you see:


Here are some pics I took last year CLICK HERE
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  #26  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:35 PM
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That's a good point about the larger bolts. I'll have to try it. Seems like the weak point is the long bolt that goes through the top of the alternator. I'll have to figure out some sort of reinforcement for that. I would like to go with the C.R.A.P. bracket but it only works with a Ford alternator and I prefer the GM three wire one I have.

John
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  #27  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:12 PM
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This alternator was installed on a pre 63 engine without the alt mounting bolt hole. The flat stock connects to a water pump bolt which is in just view. Not pretty but it was solid and something similar to brace to an existing bolt may help add rigidity.



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  #28  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:33 PM
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Yeah Dave - I see it. The 30A generator would need to operate at 80% capacity at idle to keep up with the demand - that's probably on the edge.

Add electronic ignition etc and your over the top which would drain the battery the whole time you were at idle.

The 40A will be a little better operating at about 60% (assuming the 24A system draw) - that may be something it could handle.

Eric
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  #29  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:56 AM
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  #30  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post

A SERIES 1G ALT can very easily be upgraded with specialized rebuilding.

http://alternatorparts.com/ford_alt_...grade_kits.htm

The 1G makes the retro-fit look OEM and period correct (to me anyways).
More specifically-


Part # HO-7003
$59.95 FORD ALTERNATOR 80 AMP UPGRADE KIT
Fits the standard 1G small case External Regulator alt. from 35 to 65 amps., single or double pulleys, used on Ford cars, light trucks, marine, industrial and other applications from 1965-1985.
Click Here for Kit Contents

Part # HO-7013
$69.95 FORD ALTERNATOR 105-AMP UPGRADE KIT
Fits the standard 1G small case External Regulator alt. from 35 to 65 amps., single or double pulleys, used on Ford cars, light trucks, marine, industrial and other applications from 1965-1985.
Click Here for Kit Contents

ADDED INFO-

Whenever an ALT amperage upgrade is performed, proper size wiring must be used to prevent circuit overheating/fire.



Last edited by KULTULZ : 04-24-2013 at 09:39 AM. Reason: ADD INFO
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