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  #1  
Old 03-06-2013, 06:34 AM
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tully tully is offline
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Default Rust removal

I tried this yesterday and it works


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4yYF8gSHdA
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:45 AM
triple60squares triple60squares is offline
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been doing that for over 2 years works very well
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the tip, tully. Last Fall, I purchased a tub for this purpose but never got around to using it because cold weather set in too fast.

It seems to me he forgot to mention a few things:
* This process would work better if the water temp is hotter.
* Do NOT use stainless steel for the 'sacrificial piece' as the fumes will be toxic.
* I would try using a car battery in parallel with that charger so the process gets a true DC. (I haven't tried this yet but I will.) Chargers must put out more than 12 volts to overcome the battery voltage. 'Current' depends on the surface area of the metals in the solution, and the voltage. A small piece will certainly not draw 10 amps. A large peice needs more.
* Obviously, this needs to be done outside, close to your garden hose. Nothing is dangerous here, and the scum is water soluable

I have used hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid at HD) and it works great. It only disolves iron oxide (rust), and it leaves steel alone. It's dangerous so keep pets and childred far away. I ALWAYS use goggles and gloves around acids.

Sulphuric acid fumes will knock you over. It removes rust (and chrome) unbelievably fast, like in fifteen minutes or sooner depending on the ambient temp. The fumes will also attack any bare steel in the area (like tools), so do this in the middle of your back yard, NOT in your garage or basement.

My plater uses sulfuric acid to de-rust steel. I gave him two Y-block valve covers that were pretty bad. He soaked them in his solution over the weekend. Come Moday, they still looked bad. I took them home, bathed them in hydrochloric acid, and within fifteen minutes they were entirely rust free.

As soon as the acid is washed off of steel, 'flash rust' appears right before your eyes. A quick spray of phosphoric acid takes away the rust and leaves a phosphorus coating that repels rust for about a year. Phosphoric acid can be found at ACE Hardware in a few brands: Must for Rust, Ospho, CLR, etc. All these acids are water soluable, so keep a garden hose on the job. Some mag wheel cleaners contain phosphoric acid to remove brake pad material (check out the labels).

Phosphoric acid is in Coca Cola and antifreeze (the rust inhibitor). People used to belly-up to their favorite soda fountain and order a 'cherry phosphate'. A mild solution of hydrochloric acid is in your stomach. It breaks down food but too much will give you terrible heartburn.

So, 95% of 'restoration' is in metal prep and cleanup. Rust is probably the most common tough problem to deal with. We commonly cut the rust out and replace with 'good' steel. Many of our parts are made of unobtanium so I'm open to all methods of rust removal. - Dave
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 03-06-2013 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:59 PM
Ca58tbird Ca58tbird is offline
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Tully, thanks for posting this, and good info Dave! I've used all the methods Dave wrote about, but never electricity. Guess I'd heard of it before, but didn't know the method. Now I can't wait to do the electrolysis method. Everything rusts in Minnesota.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:59 PM
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Jed, I'm only concerned about one thing: Does electrolysis erode the metal under the rust, or does it attack the iron oxide?

This is important because if the metal continues to erode and it's left in too long, there won't be much left. I will do this method when it gets warm here.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:03 PM
triple60squares triple60squares is offline
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as i said earlier ive been doing elctrolisis for a while now at the mommnet i have a couple squarebird parts in the bath

i have my bath in my basement been there over a year no problems mine runs almost constantly 24 /7

i have left heavily rusted parts in the bath for almost a month with no deteriatioin of the metal it wont remove pits it turns the metal black i take the part out and scrub it with a SOS pad and hose it off make sure to wear gloves the black stuff isnt easy to get off your skin

make sure to dry the parts throughly after you hose them off they will flash rust quick if you do dry the parts well they wont rust ive had parts that i pulled out over a year ago that i havent primed and they still are clean rust free metal (stored inside)

the bath will not harm chrome unless the chrome is allready damaged it actually releases the chrome from the metal if the chrome is cracked or peeling


i do my parts in a 45 gallon rubber trashcan with 4 electrodes (sacrafical rebar) and arm and hammer baking soda it doesnt matter how hot or cold the water is

and i dont think putting a battery in series will help it what will effect it effectivness is the condition of the sacrifical metal and the amont of baking soda in the water i use @1 tabelspoon per gallon

when you hook it up to tell if its working just look for tiny bubbles in the water

do not allow the negative charged parts come in contact with the positive charged electrodes (obvious?)
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:04 PM
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I have used this process to clean cannon balls we have dug up. My next venture is a 330 gal plastic tote in a metal cage I recently got. I plan on using it this spring, summer and early fall. I'm going to use the water and molasses mixture. I've read good stuff about it. Not sure about the bugs it might draw but I can zap them with the bug zapper.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:47 PM
triple60squares triple60squares is offline
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molasses smells really BAD or so im told

electrolisis is really good at removing paint (in sheets) especailly original paint
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:24 AM
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Molasses works well but make sure ALL the item being done is under the surface - otherwise you end up with a fine 'corrosion ring' right where the item has the surface water around it.
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