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  #61  
Old 01-29-2013, 11:06 AM
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YellowRose YellowRose is offline
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Default And so it begins...help!

Ohhh, that is too bad! As the old saying goes.... The best laid schemes of mice and men / Often go awry
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  #62  
Old 02-15-2013, 04:01 AM
BigPete BigPete is offline
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Default Fuel line

G'day Mark, Haven't been on the forum for a little while as I have been busy with work (floods and fires in Queensland - if it's not one, it's the other!!!), but I have been reading a few posts I have missed. I was wondering if you still had problems with your bird cutting out on you? I see from the threads that somebody mentioned all the flexible rubber fuel lines - I had a similar problem with mine when I got it, and was chasing my tail a bit as well. I ended up with new coil, points, condenser, fuel pump, etc. Was thinking of putting in an electric pump to see if that worked!! End result for me - it was about six inches of fuel line behind the near side guard! It was collapsing and drawing in air, as well as closing off the fuel supply. There was a slight leak on the ground which pointed me in the right direction. You could probably just remove the inner guard to replace it, but I wanted to get the guard off to have a look anyway, and clean out all the debris in there - there was a heap of the crap, but no rust yet, so she must have stayed pretty dry. Anyway, don't know if I did it it the easy way or not (bull at a gate sort of syndrome), but to remove the guard, I actually ended up removing every bit of chrome off the fromt!!! When I finished, I removed the other guard as well, and cleaned out the crap from there and sprayed it again. So all in all, about ten hours work to replace six inches of rubber. If you haven't tried replacing that bit yet, give it a shot, but just try the inner guard. That would turn all day into half an hour!!! Now I have to do the same thing again one day to properly align all my panels again (back to the bull/gate thing), but at least the car runs fine!!!! But I do also have a problem with overheating when she so much as senses a set of lights, so a good radiator flush is on the cards.......
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  #63  
Old 02-17-2013, 07:16 AM
Griffin Griffin is offline
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Hi Big Pete

I took the car for about a 30 minute drive on the weekend and there were no problems. When I removed the fuel tank I blew out all the fuel lines with compressed air and there did not appear to be any blockages. I know the section of hose you are talking about because I was also scratching my head at first trying to work out how to get to it. If the cutting out problem is still there I'll attack that hose next.

The reason I didn't take the car for a longer drive is that I've discovered a knocking/tapping noise somewhere in the top end of the motor. It appears when the car is hot but I can't track it down. It's going to a mechanic on Tuesday. The saga continues....

Mark
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  #64  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:37 AM
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Hi all

Just a follow up. The mechanic went over the car and found a few minor oil leaks which only required a plug etc being tightened up. There is a minor oil leak from the power steering box but as it looks like it has recently been rebuilt he suggested putting an additive in to rejuvenate the seal.

The motor is quiet until it's been running for about 30 minutes and then the lifter noise becomes apparent. He suggested using an additive to free up the lifter and drive the car for a while to see if that does the trick. If not he will replace the lifter.

These problems are the result of the car not being used enough. At last some positive news and light at the end of the tunnel! I want to take the car to the Thunderbird State Titles here in late March and that requires a 3-4 hour drive so the car needs to be sorted by then.

Thanks everyone and particularly Dave for your sound advice.

Cheers
Mark
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  #65  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:05 AM
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My hat goes off to you, Mark. This business of owning and running classic cars is not for the weak. Too many times you're on your own because a good ol' mechanic is hard to find if not impossible. But your tenacity is paying off in spades. You are right in that these cars were never built to sit. They need to be run at least once a month. When idle, the electric contacts cannot self-clean, especially in convertible top, electric window and seat circuits. Evidently your fuel line problems are gone, thanks to your chasing down the root cause. Good show.

Bottom line is, you did the work while we were cheering for you. It tickles me inside when a member fixes his car himself. We may not have all the answers on this side of the computer but we love to help you. - Dave
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