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  #21  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:10 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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I'm at a similar point. I suppose I can replace the screws with small bolts and lock washers. Whats that steel wool stuff in there?
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:33 AM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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I re-read the last few posts on this string and don't quite follow your question Yadkin?
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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I'm talking about the sheet metal baffle under the intake manifold. After I remove the screws I assume that I can replace them with small bolts and lock washers?

Also, there is a steel mesh fabric in the rear section of the baffle, apparently to reduce oil flow to the down draft (or pcv) system. I'll try and soak this in solvent to clean it but if I can't get it clean I'll have to replace it. I'm not sure what type of material would be appropriate to use as a replacement.
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  #24  
Old 12-02-2012, 12:51 PM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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I sued stainless steel scrubbing pads (withouth soap) from the grocery store in the valley pan space on my Y-Block. SS screen (hardware cloth) may work also.
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  #25  
Old 12-02-2012, 03:26 PM
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Two thoughts came to mind when you said, Y-block. I don't mean to get sidetracked but the Y has a separate 'valley pan' as I call it.

I had all my sheet metal chromed and assembled with stainless.


While the engine was still on the stand, I noticed the cam got REAL HARD to turn. I scratched my head for ten minutes over that one. Turns out, if the valley pan screws are too long, they squeeze the cam bearings underneath. Thank God nothing was harmed but I learned a lot about the engine and the dangers of using long bolts that day. Sometimes studs and nuts work better.

The second thought regarding the draft mesh makes my skin crawl. Shedding pieces of spun steel can get into your oil pump and really screw it up. I don't know if ScotchBrite material is heat resistant enough but it might be suitable to use. Stainless mesh isn't necessary but it is still good as long as it holds together. - Dave
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  #26  
Old 12-02-2012, 07:09 PM
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The shop building my engine claimed they always used the stainless steel material when needed. Mine was missing from the "box" on the pan's underside. Scotchbrite won't stand the heat, the copper scrubbing material could corrode and crumble in time. They have also used ss window screen wadded up to condense the fumes, but you have to buy a large amount and the scrub pads are in a useable size/shape ready to use.

(Hope you also checked the oil passages to make sure the hole in the cam bearing was fully open.)
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  #27  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:17 PM
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I love the idea of using copper window screen. I suppose aluminum would work as well.

Re: Y-block... read the second paragraph CLICK HERE

I have found some Y-blocks offer less resistance when I blow down that center cam bearing hole. I have also sent a loooong 1/4" drill bit down to open the cam bearing hole just a little more.

My rocker arms have great oil flow at every valve stem. I also plugged the drain so the shaft is pressurized. That raised my idle oil pressure to 40-psi. My Y's run at about 55-psi. - Dave
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  #28  
Old 12-02-2012, 11:17 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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I wouldn't use copper or aluminum because of dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion. I ll ask my machinist what he uses.
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