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Old 06-21-2012, 10:31 AM
jackbird60 jackbird60 is offline
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Cool Lower Control Arms for 60 Tbird

Hi Everyone,

I originally posted about Lower Control Arm Bushings, since I was told that's what I needed. When I brought my car to my the local car place for repair (and I do trust these guys) and gave them the new bushing they told me that the Lower control arm bushing was welded to the Lower control arm on the drivers side. (they told me I probably didn't need the other control arm, but if I could get one, it would be simplier to do)

Anyway, I breifly searched the iternet for Lower Control Arms and found nothing.

Question is, can they fix that arm? Like just by popping out the old welded bushing, and rewelding the new busdhing to the control arm? I really have no idea on how this would work.

This problem started when I would hear a cracking nosie when I turned the wheel. I found out that it was the lower control arm bushing attached to the front of the frame was popping out and that was the source of the noise.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks- Jack
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:57 AM
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Most likely, the bushing was tacked into place as a result of the original bushing failure and resultant hogging out of the arm bushing opening.

They are hesitant (and rightly so) that once the weld is ground and the bushing removed, the arm will be damaged and they will be stuck with the car on their rack.

They are just covering their butt on this one.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:06 PM
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YellowRose YellowRose is offline
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Default Lower Control Arms for 60 Tbird

Have you called Carl Heller - partsetal on here? Or PM'd him? Carl has a lot of parts for Squarebirds. Or Don at the Bird Nest? Or the Bird House in Delaware? or John Draxler of Tbird Ranch? They all have parts. You can find their contact information in the Advertisements Forum....

Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
'59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:50 AM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Jack, it's always best to use parts that already fit if they are available. After fifty years many parts become scarce. As a result, many control arms have been repaired successfully.

The lower control arm is very mild stamped steel which is easy to work with. The bushing holes are 'flanged' rather than drilled, and made to give. Bushing shells are stamped, too. The result is two stampings pressed together, neither of which are very exact in size.

I have changed many sets of bushings. Some were tight and some were snug. I have carefully tack welded a few snug-fitting bushings (which works very well). A sloppy fit is not acceptable. If the hole is sloppy but not distorted, a bead (buildup) of weld, ground to size will do nicely.

If the hole is distorted, a new sleeve that a new bushing fits into may be in order. Your fab shop can make a good sleeve by splitting tubing and welding it to the correct diameter, then weld it into the original 'A' arm hole. Give the shop a new urethane bushing set for size and alignment.

My lower 'A' arms have welded spindle 'stop' tabs, so apparently Ford had no problem welding on them. Remember, your suspension rotates on urethane, not on the axle bolts or sleeves. - Dave
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