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  #11  
Old 05-14-2012, 10:50 AM
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My valve is only about 1 1/2 inches from the oil pan and I have the Granada spindles on my car too. Maybe your tie rod ends are on top of the steering arm rather than the bottom (last pic).?

Your car looks much lower in the front than mine...?...



Eric







Maybe your motor mounts are flat? or the wrong type letting the engine sit lower in the compartment? (bad pic but maybe it will give you an idea of the original type)



Last edited by DKheld : 05-14-2012 at 11:08 AM. Reason: another idea
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  #12  
Old 05-17-2012, 10:50 PM
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thank's for the pic eric all post some of mind as soon as I can worhking on 12h shiff but monday all be in vacation so maybe you see why mine is so close
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2012, 05:21 PM
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Lightbulb

Maybe we should also get the outter diameter dimensions of a known OE 1958-60 ram cylinder & compare it to yours?

Just so we know yours is OE & not a match off a early Mustang or something like??

-Jon in TX.
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  #14  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:59 PM
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I do those 12hr shifts often so I know what you mean - we'll look for the pic Monday (or as soon as you can).

Meanwhile Jon has a great idea. Had the Tbird out today so when I returned I measured my PS cyl. 9 3/4 length (cyl only not the arm) and 2 inches in diameter. Ram is original and the one that came on the car new.

Bad news is while I was returning home the rear main seal went south and oil was pouring down on the exhaust. I just pretended I was James Bond and had activated my smoke screen to elude the bad guys

Geez - the oil was everywhere - been trying to decide if I was going to install my new engine or nurse the original along until winter. Guess the rear seal made the decision easy. Probably could get away with just replacing the seal but with 110K and a new engine waiting - It's time.

Eric
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:57 PM
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Hi Guys

Not enough hours in a day, here are some pics of the problems.

Carl mentionned idler arm bushings. Those are the only ones I did nt change. I think they re not bad. Eric, I m sorry to hear about your rear main seal, a bummer just before summer! Hope you can fix it...

My cylinder 2 1/8 x about 12 inches . See pic.
When I had it restored they resoldered it and where the solder is , it s 2 1/4 inches, that leaves only 1/4 inch in clearance, that s with my shim in place. You can see my motor mount on one side there is a washer and on the other side there s a shim that is 2 washers thick.

My tie rod ends are OK . I don t understand why it was rubbing but I think with the shim I ll be alwright. I think I m going to rough it like that and see unless you see something I don t see, or another suggestion.

Thanks
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2012, 07:12 PM
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Yves - nothing jumps out at me - it all looks pretty much the same as mine. Maybe someone will see something I missed.

Is the top bolt missing from the motor mount where it bolts to the motor? Just a temporary thing to get the shims in?

Only other guess is in my first pic the arm that connects the power steering ram to the steering arms has a slight bend down between where it connects to the ram and then to the idler arm. If that were reversed it may lift the ram up too high but I think the bolt was pressed in so the arm cannot be reversed?

Hope the shims work out and you can drive it this summer then get back to problem solving this winter.

About the rear seal - Thanks - knew it was coming so no big deal but yes what a bummer right here at the best driving time.

C'est la vie!

Eric
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2012, 10:02 PM
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you're right I went in the garage and it look like there a bolt missing but it's a illusion there a another hole just above in front of the mount and by the angle I took the picture it's look like that but it's really there. like you say that arm cannot be reversed or it would be a lot a work
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