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  #1  
Old 04-19-2012, 05:34 PM
benfisher benfisher is offline
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Default Thermostat(s) issue

Hello All, quick question about Thermostat(s).
I have a 1959 hardtop with the 430 J code engine.
I seem to be have issues with coolant leaking from the overfill tube.
The manual shows 3 thermostats (1 in the intake manifold- 2 in the waterpump legs.)
My question is, " should I remove the termostats in the waterpump permanently, and just replace the intake manifold thermostat?
Any sugestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
Regards: Ben.
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2012, 06:31 PM
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Ben,

The first question I have is how much coolant do you have in your overfill tank. It should only be to the very bottom of the tank. A lot of people make the mistake of filling it to the top and it has nowhere to go but out the tube when it gets hot.

John
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:46 PM
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Ben, the 'block thermostats' are very hard or impossible to find. Most of the 430 guys use baffles in those holes to divert the cool water, down a bit. They also run with only the main thermostat. Remember to put the 'bulb' side towards the engine.

I think the 430 is the only Ford engine that uses block thermostats. Most thermostats are in the intake manifold.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:34 PM
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Ben,
The 430 was built with two thermostats behind the water pump to control the water flow and two diverters to direct flow upwards to the heads. I'm not sure replacing thermostats or removing them will help. From what you describe, the hot engine forces water out of the overflow tube at the filler neck of the coolant reservoir. You could have a bad radiator cap (it should be 13-14 lb) or your radiator tubes could be restricting the flow from the pump into them. I'd look here first before changing/removing thermostats.
Carl
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:26 PM
benfisher benfisher is offline
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Default water reservoir

Thank you for your GREAT feedback.
First off, I did fill the reservoir to the top, so that is probably the problem. Considering I have only put a few miles on the car so far, I will drive her a bit before tearing things apart. I do have to do the right rear brake cylinder.
Then bleed the brakes, Love driving this car, the power is amazing, far cry from the original Model T I sold to make room for her, ( have to keep the wife happy!!!!!!!!!!!!).
Regards: Ben.
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:16 AM
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Ben, what work are you planning for your engine? Tell us more about it.

Now that good cruisin weather is upon us, will you wait until Fall/Winter before 'tearing into' her?
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:30 PM
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John raises a good point and makes me want to follow up on it.

The tank is an "expansion tank" - yes? Not an overflow tank. So if it is an expansion tank then when things warm up and the coolant expands, the idea is for that expansion to happen in the tank - yes? If so then a decent amount of air would seem to need to be present to act as a compressible buffer . By comparison if the tank is full to the brim with coolant, no expansion can occur and once the 13 psi is exceeded, the cap allows coolant to escape, lowering the pressure.

Did Ford ever say what exact level to have the coolant in the tank?

As a side note, a properly set up motor might have an overflow container for those times when some coolant is kicked out but if done right, gets sucked back in when things cool. As modern cars do. Dumping toxic stuff on the ground would seem undesireable.

I apologize for deviating from the original post; it occurred to me I was not sure if I had properly understood the function of the tank.

John
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2012, 02:00 AM
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The MEL cylinder block thermostats were deleted somewhere about the 1963 model run (LINC). These provided a warmer lower block warmup as the MEL had a very unique cooling system design.

They have not been available for years and it is recommended that they be removed during any front engine service. The coolant divertors though must be retained and fully functional.

The purpose of the surge (expansion) tank during this period was the need to have the main thermostat above the radiator level and this accomplished that (engines set lower for lower hood lines). It is a fill tank (replaces radiator top or side tank) and unless a coolant recovery bottle is used must have an air space left in the tank to receive heated expanding coolant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG View Post

Did Ford ever say what exact level to have the coolant in the tank?

I apologize for deviating from the original post; it occurred to me I was not sure if I had properly understood the function of the tank.

John
The fill level will be the same as used on radiators of the period, 1 to 1 1/2" below the fill neck. A properly rated and functioning cap is a necessity.

I do not see your post as a deviation but an imortant one as it adds info to the subject.

Last edited by KULTULZ : 04-21-2012 at 02:06 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2012, 11:44 AM
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I removed the non-functioning waterpump "ear" thermostat's on my 430cid & installed a new "top" thermostat. I think it's a 180 degree?

You really only need those lower two in extreme cold climate areas (for improved interior heating).

I also keep my expansion tank cold water/coolant level about 1/4" below the seam line (where the two tank halves are soldered together).

My cooling system seem sto work well with very little "burbing" in TX heat.

-Jon in TX.
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2012, 08:47 PM
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Default plans for the engine

Thanks to all for the responses.
To Lee Iacocca, I plan on having the carb rebuilt and perhaps removing the two lower thermostats.
The car runs, and drives fantastic. Huge amounts of power and rides like a dream. I am thinking of installing radial tires but have to consider whether I am going to install disc brakes in the future. (from 14 inch to 15 inch).
PS once I figure out how to post some pictures on the forum, I will do so.
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