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  #11  
Old 10-07-2009, 12:56 PM
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some of the motorcycle guys swear by the Muratic acid for dealing with rusty gas tanks.
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  #12  
Old 10-07-2009, 02:04 PM
Ca58tbird Ca58tbird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
some of the motorcycle guys swear by the Muratic acid for dealing with rusty gas tanks.
John, yes indeed. I have done 2 motorcyle tanks a '72 chev PU tank. 1st bike tank used the POR15 epoxy kit with their rust prep stuff, PU tank I used sulpheric acid and didn't coat it with POR15 epoxy. Last bike tank used muratic acid and POR15 gas tank epoxy. The 1st bike tank I had done 20 years ago, still have the bike and it is still just perfect inside the tank. Also helps to rattle a chain around in the tank when the acid is inside to scrape off the rust, then do a good rinse with POR15 Marine Clean or TSPhospate and water.
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  #13  
Old 04-12-2012, 04:48 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but I'm going back through and reading some of the great content users have posted over the years. I just came across a product I'd not used before, I think it's been around for awhile, but I'd never tried it until recently. It works well and now has a spot in my shop. It's called Deep Creep from Sea Foam.
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  #14  
Old 04-12-2012, 06:00 PM
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I recently read of using heat and candle wax or better yet Beeswax. You can get Beeswax from toilet gaskets. You may have a toilet gasket left over if you installed the Red Green "Full Flush Carburetor" that Ray posted the link to.

Man, I musta spent 3 hours looking at Red Green's Youtube stuff. Funny guy.

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  #15  
Old 04-12-2012, 06:03 PM
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What's in it?
I recently discovered very good rust removers in 'wheel cleaners'. One of them I found at O'Rilley's and after reading the label I was really surprised it was for sale on the market.

I was looking for an inexpensive phosphoric acid. The guys at the counter had that 'deer in the headlights' stare and pointed towards Gunk. No,.. I wanted something better. I happened to glimpse the wheel cleaners on my way out the door and remembered that brake dust is real hard to deal with.

I picked up a few different brands and started reading the contents. My smile got bigger as I read. These were better and cheaper than the stuff I bought at the 'big box', HD or Lowe's stores. HCL is still the granddaddy for stripping down to bare steel but I hate the 'flash rust' it leaves behind, so I finish with phosphoric.

Some parts are made of steel that is so thin, you can count on breaking it off, like brake bleeders and brake line nuts. I'm in the Rust Belt where we cut bolts off if practical to avoid expensive chemicals and save time. Replacing with new is better and cheaper.
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  #16  
Old 04-12-2012, 06:09 PM
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Web info on Deep Creep - looks like the Aspirin of lubricants. Good for what ails you.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-deep-creep.html

http://www.seafoamsales.com/products...tion/msds.html
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  #17  
Old 04-13-2012, 01:58 PM
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The other good advice is to go back and forth with bolts if you have trouble with them. It is ok to back up the loosening a bit and spray again if you need to. It helped a bunch on some of the bolts. A thread file is also useful in some cases if you don't have one.
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  #18  
Old 04-14-2012, 11:38 AM
Sherman Sherman is offline
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After you heat the fastener place a candle on heated bolt/threads and let the candle wax melt into/onto it.
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