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  #11  
Old 10-21-2011, 06:48 AM
Jimz Bird Jimz Bird is offline
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Question on compressing springs.

Can you put the spring compressor tool on while the weight is on the springs to "pre-compress" the spring and the jack it up and the spring will be compressed without having to compress it with the weight off of it?
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2011, 02:57 PM
redstangbob redstangbob is offline
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You could do that, the shock has to come out first. If I'm replacing springs I cut them up with a torch rather than spend time compressing them. Having that much spring in your hands while guiding the upper arm back on it's bolts is a little nerve-racking. the shop manual has a good picture of the compressor being used, every once in awhile one shows up on ebay. good luck, Bob C
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  #13  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:41 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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I don't think i could have put springs in my 66 without that tool. Eastwood has a internal compresser but seemed a little weak. These are some deavy huty springs. now on to my cougar for a front lift
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:22 PM
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64tbirdJerry 64tbirdJerry is offline
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Default Thanks for your help guys!

Many of you addressed my questions very well. Let me give you my progress: Upper Ball Joint required soaking in rust buster for several days, then it tapped out finally. I used a pickle fork to break it loose from the spindle, that tool is worth its weight in gold. The lower a arm bushing had to soak for a few days too and it finally came out, tapping a socket on one end.
Now the real test of my abilities was the coil spring. I first used external compressors to compress it halfway. I then used an internal compressor (after tightening it up enough i could remove the external compressors) and put my impact wrench on it and bumped it all the way compressed, it barely came out of the car, even though the upper a arm was down as far as it could go. I put it back in the same way. I did cut one coil off though, as i want the front end dropped. To date, i have replaced both ball joints, upper and lower a arm bushings, tie rods, strut bracket bushings and have the sway bar and sway bar connecting shaft to go (once i complete the other side) this has been a challenge, but i know i'll knock out the other side in half the time. Thanks again for all your input, sorry i have taken so long to respond.
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:25 PM
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64tbirdJerry 64tbirdJerry is offline
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Default Another coil spring experience

Jim, the coil spring is so strong that when i tried to jack up the upper a arm to compress it, the whole car came up off the jack stand. to answer your question, it won't come out unless you compress it first. Remove the shock and use an internal compressor - see my other post about using two sets of compressors; it worked for me.
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  #16  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:31 PM
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64tbirdJerry 64tbirdJerry is offline
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Thanks for your help Bob, yes i have a manual and must have missed the pickle fork entry. Everything now has new bushings and ball joints, and all is painted semi gloss black - looks fantastic. thanks again for your help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redstangbob View Post
Jerry, I wonder if you have a shop manual? They show the recommended way to release the ball joints, you can make that tool pretty easy or use the pickle fork. So Jerry doesn't get too confused, the ball joints can be removed once the suspension is relaxed to it's maximum travel, the upper arm will meet it's stop. Then everything from the upper ball joint down can be serviced. The spring is not just strong because of the car's weight, it's long. To service the upper arm shaft the spring needs to be contained, so the proper compressor is a must. Good luck, Bob C
PS: the spring will look bowed after the shock is disconnected and the car raised all the way, this is the normal look.
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