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  #11  
Old 11-08-2010, 02:32 PM
spujia spujia is offline
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Thanks to all for the great info, I appreciate it.

@Dave - Just to be clear could you please clarify:

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Both stranded copper conductors of sufficient diameter, should be connected as close to the starter motor as possible.
Specifically, which conductors? I assume one of these is the ground off of the battery.



Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
'Fixed' areas, like between your battery and starter solenoid can use regular #2 THHN wire from Home Depot or Lowe's.
I just have the regular battery terminal type cable here - I assume this is OK.


Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I connect my ground wire to the bell housing, close to the starter motor....
...The car body needs a solid ground. Squarebirds came with a braided strap at the firewall. After awhile that strap fails and current goes through your U-joints and bearings.
An extra wire from the firewall to the housing, yes?

Thanks again,
Steve
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:26 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Steve, run a #2 cable from your battery NEG to your bell housing. Run a small (#10) from your battery NEG to your radiator support. That's two wires coming off your battery NEG post. One is large (#2-AWG) and the other is small in diameter.

A "fixed" cable is one that never moves; one that doesn't go to the engine, so there is very little vibration. The POS battery wire going to your starter solenoid is 'fixed'. The POS wire from your solenoid to your starter motor flexes.

Specifically, you should have two flexible #2 wires running to your starter. One is POS (that comes from your starter solenoid lug with ring terminals on both ends. The other is your NEG wire from your battery to your bell housing.

If you run the small ground to your radiator support, you shouldn't need any extra ground wires for the body. After having said that, I run a bare #10 copper wire from my battery NEG to my trunk! All along the way, I tap off of it for my DASH grounds, my WINDOW & SEAT grounds, Convertible top motor ground, GAS TANK ground, TAIL LIGHT housing grounds, TRAILER ground, and any other device that needs a ground (like my power antenna, and power inverter).

I have learned not to depend on 50 yr-old spot welds for good current flow. Remember... we need TWO wires to complete any electrical circuit. The ground wire is equally important as the hot wire, so don't take it for granted. How many times have you seen cars with one headlight dim, or a stop/tail light that 'floats' back and forth between bulbs? It's all about propper grounding.

CLICK HERE to see my, Ford Starter Motor Rebuild. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 12-09-2010, 01:32 AM
spujia spujia is offline
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Just a follow-up: I've connected the ground on the bell housing and the starter runs noticeably better. Still sluggish at times, but getting better every time I run the car for a while.

Thank you all for all of the info - great help!
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