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  #41  
Old 09-24-2010, 11:11 PM
BlkBird BlkBird is offline
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well i am not sure if i have a resistor or not. it gave me a way to check with the pertronix instructions and i did that but as soon as i did it was sparking when i touched the wire so i quit.

i will check the magnet. again. LOL i slipped it on there but didnt turn it. i did the spacer thing and then tightened it down. took spacer out. it was really close. instructions say no gap b/w the two. and the little plastic spacer was tough to get out. maybe too close.

i get the red wire from the pertronix goes to pos on coil and neg goes to neg. i am just wondering if i need to move the red one that was in that harness and connect to the coil as well instead of the thread near the bottom of the distributor in the block it seems. i dont think so though. the black wire was attached to the coil and is still there from the harness so that will have to go on the coil as well so that means i will have two black wires on the coil this time instead of one (because the pertronix has a new black wire) and the red one from the pertronix will go to the postive. the confusion is what to do with that black wire from the harness. it used to be on the batt side of the old coil. i am thinking that maybe its not a ground wire like i think and needs to go to the positive side since it was on the BATT end. the red one coming out of the old points system was on the DIST side. so maybe since i am going from BATT/DIST on old coil and the new one is pos/neg. it could be that black wasnt a ground and goes to the positive side?
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  #42  
Old 09-24-2010, 11:23 PM
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jopizz jopizz is online now
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Your coil was wired backwards. The red wire from the harness goes to the BATT terminal and the black wire from the points goes to the DIST terminal. If you have a black wire coming out of the harness instead something is screwed up. You need to put a test light on it to see if it's got power with the key on. If it was on the BATT term of the coil I'd put it back on. The threaded post near the distributor you mentioned is the temperature sender. It should have a red/white wire on it.

Last edited by jopizz : 09-24-2010 at 11:34 PM.
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  #43  
Old 09-24-2010, 11:45 PM
BlkBird BlkBird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Your coil was wired backwards. The red wire from the harness goes to the BATT terminal and the black wire from the points goes to the DIST terminal. If you have a black wire coming out of the harness instead something is screwed up. You need to put a test light on it to see if it's got power with the key on. If it was on the BATT term of the coil I'd put it back on. The threaded post near the distributor you mentioned is the temperature sender. It should have a red/white wire on it.
ahhh, that is a problem. the only red wire i have coming out of the harness is attached to the temp sender from what you are saying. the wire that was connected to the BATT is BLACK. i made the assumption that it must go to the neg. LOL and guess what. i just pulled the pertronix out and it was smelling like it was fried and sure enough it is. has a black hole in it. hopefully that didnt mess up anything else??? just the electronics. have to send back and get a new one. so here is the deal now. i want to re-install my points but have no idea if i just screw them back in or if they have to be close to something like the way the magnet was supposed to be. i think i read somewhere that you have to "set" them or something.

second thing is i want to use this COIL instead of my old one while i wait to get a new igniter from pertronix. so if i use a tester and test that black wire that was on batt and it lights up then it would go to the postive side on the new coil or what? that would mean i wouldnt have anything going to the NEG side? or am i utter confused.

well guess what. that black wire has a little over 12 volts. closer to 13 it seems. barely lit that light up at 13 or 13.5 or whatever but it definately has power. so thats why it blew. now i would suppose since it is POS that it would go to the POS on the new coil. the one from the points would also go to the POS. then i would have to use a wire i dont have to ground the coil to someplace?

Last edited by BlkBird : 09-24-2010 at 11:54 PM. Reason: new info
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  #44  
Old 09-24-2010, 11:51 PM
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It sounds like the original red wire broke and somebody pieced a black wire onto it. If it has power it should go on the BATT term or POS terminal of the coil. The DIST or NEG side of the coil should go to the distributor points. If you are going to put the old points back on they have to be set with a feeler gauge.
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  #45  
Old 09-26-2010, 12:05 AM
BlkBird BlkBird is offline
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well i changed the way i had it wired and put the points back in. took a while to get them just right. probably still not perfect but drives good, a very slight idle roughness but only slight. i cant wait to get the new pertronix in there, since thanks to the help, i wont blow it up again. LOL one thing i have noticed, and read about on this site (which some or most is over my head so i cant test it) is the generator light coming on more pronounced. before it would just barely be there when i was in idle while in gear. like at a stop sign. as soon as i hit the gas or put it in park/neutral it would be fine. i know everyone has talked about it and testing this and that but again thats completely over my head. and the regulator thing is too. its more prounounced now for sure. at first i was thinking the idle was too low while it was warming up. put the elec choke in and although it takes a while to warm up it works and it seems maybe the idle needs to be slowed down. HAHA. but no light on warm up. then when i am in gear or at a light and stopped i think the idle might need to come up. its weird. then the gen light comes on pretty bright. just had it tested and it was working fine. wasnt as bright until i took out the points, blew up the elec ignition, put points back in. LOL figures. runs fine when i am going but makes me nervous when at lights or stop signs. just waiting for it to die. HAHA. i think if the idle is adjusted properly and the elec ignition comes in and its in there that it might go away but you never know. i was thinking of switching to an alternator and then have read about that on here as well. seems like a lot of trouble. i found that Concours in NV have the kit to bolt right on for 169.00 or so including the alt. has anyone used theirs? can anyone also tell me why the gen light ONLY comes on while in gear at idle at a light, just sitting there with my foot on the brake. i put in a voltmeter and its always slightly over 12, except for today when driving with the pertronix coil in (since switched back to old one til new ignition comes) and it was running around 13 to 13.4 while driving down the street. at night with lights on it was just below 12 unless i have the other coil in then its slightly higher. thanks again for the help guys.

Oh yeah. still no tail light blinkers. LOL

Last edited by BlkBird : 09-26-2010 at 12:09 AM.
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  #46  
Old 09-26-2010, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkBird View Post
can anyone also tell me why the gen light ONLY comes on while in gear at idle at a light, just sitting there with my foot on the brake.
Probably because your engine speed is at its lowest in that situation? i.e. the moter is fighting the trans trying to get the car to move but you're holding it back with the brakes being on.


Hence not turning the generator pully fast enough to create much current....just my 2 cents worth (and experience!)
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  #47  
Old 09-26-2010, 12:26 PM
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Scumdog is righ about your engine speed.

The GEN light plays a balancing act. When the generator puts out less voltage than the battery already has, the light will shine.

Think about this, when you first turn the key to 'IGN' (before the engine starts), the light is on and bright. If you throw a belt, the GEN light stays on bright.

When your engine is running, the light will go out IF the generator is running fast enough to charge the battery. In other words, the gen is producing more volts than the battery already has.

Generators don't charge well at low speeds AND the generator's Field is still pulling juice, which tends to discharge a battery. Kick up the RPM's and the GEN light goes out, indicating the battery is charging.

Alternators charge much better at idle speeds. The GEN light should never come on with an alternator setup unless something is very wrong (thrown belt, broken wire, etc.).

If your engine is stalling, the idle is probably too low. Until you get the new Pertronix, kick up your idle a little.

What did you set your points at? Thirteen thousandths? On the road and in a pinch, I've used a matchbook cover. It's very close too .013". After you adjust your points, don't forget to adjust your carb. Those carb needle screws are strictly for idle adjustments. - Dave
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