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  #161  
Old 11-23-2009, 08:17 AM
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Howard Prout Howard Prout is offline
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I just had a look at the master cylinder in my 1992 F150 - front discs, rear drums, rear ABS. The brake lines lead directly from the master cylinder to the axles (see pic.). But what is that bump on the side of the master cylinder that feeds the line to the front brakes (the line closest to the firewall)? Does the master cylinder include a combination valve? I thought I was going to be able to replicate the system on the truck but that doesn't seem to be the case. Does the rear ABS make a difference - my guess is that it does.
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  #162  
Old 11-23-2009, 10:12 AM
protourbird protourbird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowRose View Post
Hi Dave,

This confirms what OID told me in a phone call with him last week. That we did not need an adjustable prop valve, just the combination one would do the job. He also told me, as I recall, that it was not necessary to remove the under-dash mounted bellows booster. He said he has a Lincoln with one of his engine compartment mounted dual MC/Power Booster systems on it. He hooked it up through the firewall to the under-dash bellows booster and runs it like that with no problems...
The adjustable proportioning valve is a must do to the differing weight of the vehicles. The combination valve is designed for a specific weight. BE SAFE USE THE CORRECT PROP VALVE!.
Also when you remove the under dash bellows you need to be aware that you will get substantial firewall flex (I learned this the hard way) which will give you a soft pedal feel no matter what you do.
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  #163  
Old 11-25-2009, 06:37 AM
1946hamm 1946hamm is offline
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Default Booster update.

Hi everyone; I received the booster and bracket pictured and this particular MBM bracket will not work on my 1960 straight stick. There is not enough rise from firewall to the booster in the bracket to clear the steering column reverse shift lever and the backup light switch bracket and switch. The original bracket has more rise from the firewall to the booster. It cleared the shift lever and backup light switch by about an inch.
I am going to use my original bracket on the new booster. I have it bolted up with a little modification and I think it will work fine. I will try to get some pictures when I'm satisfied with the instillation.
For all of you who need one for an A/C equipped bird, this MBM bracket and the stock Ford brackets will NOT work. They do not set the booster out far enough to clear the A/C box. I finally saw some pictures and the A/C box almost goes to the back of the engine. Farther than I thought. I sure would like to see a few pictures of a straight stick bird with A/C to see what ford used.

The MBM Bracket # MBMF5772BPR is 3 5/8" deep with a 1" rise front to back. The front being the firewall end and the back being the booster end.
The factory ford bracket is 4" deep and the rise is about 2" front to rear.
The 5 1/2 " bracket mentioned in another post would probably work with A/C if the rise is enough to clear the stuff on the steering column. There is about an inch more room where the booster bolts to the bracket because of the booster design. 7" or 8" boosters should work. It sure would be nice to have a bunch of different brackets to play with just to get a real idea of what combination works with what since no supplier seems to know for sure.
I hope this helps.
Have a good turkey day, Gary




Quote:
Originally Posted by 1946hamm View Post
Here is a picture of the booster combo I have ordered. It is a MBM 8" dual booster. The 57-72 ford/mercury part # PBUF5772. The reason I ordered this one is because the bracket looks like the old one on my 60 tbird. UPS tracking says I get it monday and I will know then if it fits like I think it will. I ordered it from Carolina Classic Trucks on the web. I considered Old Irish Daves offerings but they all showed 7" dual boosters with an angled bracket. I wanted a straight bracket and 8" dual booster instead of a 7". OID might be able to make up an 8" setup with this straight bracket but since I found this one, I went with it. I don't know if it can be had in chrome or not. This is the same bracket that Simplyconnected has mentioned in an earlier thread so I know it will work. I will have to do some measuring to see if it sits out far enough for an A/C box.
Hope this helps. Gary


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  #164  
Old 11-25-2009, 10:08 AM
ParTaxer ParTaxer is offline
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Is there anyway to flip the bracket to gain the necessary height?
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  #165  
Old 11-25-2009, 10:30 AM
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Default Disk Brake Conversion Discussion

ParTaxer has a good thought! Can the bracket be flipped?

Gary, thanks for the post regarding your installation. Ya'll might call Old Irish Dave 575-544-4729 or email him at:
shamrock_dave@yahoo.com

I know he is working on this bracket problem. He has a lot of different brackets. He might have found one that will work.
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  #166  
Old 11-25-2009, 01:14 PM
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Default Granada conversion

Got my modified booster from Booster Dewy (Power Brake Booster Exchange) http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com
approx $300 but I did not exchange mine just bought it outright so I could keep my original one - under the hood booster only - modified from the 4 bolt old style master to accept the 2 bolt disc/drum master.

Granada spindles from a local junk yard $125

Machine work on Granada spindles $80 - Fat Man Fabrications

Granada calipers $40, Granada Rotors with bearings $80 - both from Advance Auto

Front flex lines $50, proportioning (combo) valve $140 - Master Power Brake Mooresville NC

Banjo bolts for the front flex lines $20 - some speed shop in California - can't remember the name of the place but it was the only place I could find at the time that had the right length and thread pitch.

Pads $20, Master Cyl (Lincoln Mark IV?) $25, Steel lines, misc ends for lines, grease and grease caps $40 - NAPA

4 Ford LTD wheels $100 - different junkyard

Alignment $75.

Total conversion around $1095 not including time and tools bought to bend/flare brake line. Could put it back original if I wanted - no holes drilled or modifications that can't be reversed. Never will go back to drums.

http://www.dropshots.com/DKHeld#albums/Tbird%20discs

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  #167  
Old 11-25-2009, 05:05 PM
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Your last words tell the whole story:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
... Never will go back to drums...Eric
It tickles me, you are so happy with your conversion. There are different ways to do this. Bottom line is, for about a grand, you have power disk brakes! Please tell me, was it worth it? I should really ask you in a few months, after you have more history with your setup. (But I think I know the answer.)

I didn't hear any problems with front-end allignment, either.

The difference in stopping is dramatic. No pull, no fade, they dry immediately; they act like modern car brakes because they are. I will never go back to drums again, either.
Good Job, Eric. I love your pictures. They are big, in-focus, and exposed perfectly. Thank You so much for sharing.

BTW, what do you think of the idea of selling your brake bending and flareing tools to the next member IF you are never going to use them again? Just a thought.

Today, I bought a ball joint tapered reamer. I don't need it for myself, but I thought of renting it to anyone who uses the Granada-type spindles. That way it won't cost them the $80 Fat Man charged you. I figure I could rent it for $15. Oh, and if anyone needs a genuine Ford combination valve (at a good price), contact Ray or me. - Dave
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  #168  
Old 11-25-2009, 05:18 PM
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Well let me add to the confusion. The MBM site is very informative. It clearly states that if you use a proportioning valve, you also need a metering valve. So a combination valve makes a lot of sense.

My initial plan was to change the booster/mc first and convert the front axle to disc brakes sometime later. Before I knew about metering valves, I thought I could avoid having to do the plumbing to the front axle twice by installing a proportioning valve during the first stage but set it wide open so that it wasn't doing anything. Then when I got to the second stage, I could adjust the proportioning valve to something like at 70/30 front bias, and all would be OK. Then the issue of metering valves was raised which made this plan infeasible as I would have to redo the plumbing since a metering valve would not work with a drum/drum setup but was needed for disc/drum set up.

Then I contacted SSBC about whether or not their A0730C PROP-BLOCK included a metering valve. It has an adjustable proportioining valve and a distribution block. If not, was one needed? After a couple of responses that seemed to skirt the question, I told them specifically what I wanted to do. The answer was to go ahead with the original plan - no metering valve is necessary!

Two "expert" sources - two opposing answers. Life is confusing!

I have to agree with Dave Dare, when in doubt do it the way the OEMs did it. I have a original Ford combination valve on the way. I'll use it when I do the entire conversion in one shot.
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  #169  
Old 11-25-2009, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Prout View Post
...Two "expert" sources - two opposing answers. Life is confusing!
Howard, if you aren't sure about something, consider how the OEM's did it.

Your car isn't special or unusual. The OEM's put out millions of cars just like yours. You can not go far wrong if you follow their example. If you go to disk/drum, the OEM's used just a combination valve. If you keep all your drums, again, OEM's never used a valve. - Dave
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 11-25-2009 at 05:38 PM.
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  #170  
Old 11-25-2009, 05:39 PM
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Eric, I may have missed it but what size wheels (14" or 15"...) are you using?

If 14", can you tell me any specifics on the wheels? (width, what car they came from).

Your car and the work you have done looks great and I am sure you are enjoying the improvement!

Ironically, while one can only occasionally enjoy the horsepower of a good motor, you can enjoy excellent braking almost all of the time. This entire thread has a wealth of valuable information.

thanks!
John
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