This will take you to the main site where there is history, technical information and other information on these cars.
This takes you back to the main page of the forums.
This is the control panel to change your password, information and preferences on this message board.
Click here if your lost your password or need to register on this message board. You must be a registered user to post. Registration is free.
Search this board for information you need.
Click here to buy cool Squarebirds mechandise.
Click here to support Squarebirds.org. For $20 annually receive 20mBytes webspace, a Squarebirds e-mail address and member's icon on the message board.
  #1  
Old 06-08-2009, 12:00 PM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 9 2008
Posts: 31
Tuxedo is on a distinguished road
Default '60 Master Cylinder Kit

I noticed that there are 2 rebuild kits available for a '60 with power steering. How do I find out which one is the right one for a '60 with power steering and no AC?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-08-2009, 12:38 PM
GTE427's Avatar
GTE427 GTE427 is offline
Super-Experienced
 
Join Date: Oct 9 2007
Posts: 598
GTE427 is on a distinguished road
Default

I can't answer your question directly regarding PS, no AC.
However, there are two Master Cylinders (MC) found on the Squarebirds today, with either a 1" bore or a 1 1/8" bore. Look at the side of your MC and the size will be cast into the MC. This is the only difference I know of for our MC's, and the kits should be sold accordingly. The 60 should have a 1" bore, and these are the more common, check the casting for size before ordering as you just never know after 49 years.
__________________
Ken
1959 J Convertible
1960 J Hardtop

Last edited by GTE427 : 06-08-2009 at 12:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-08-2009, 12:48 PM
Anders's Avatar
Anders Anders is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 19 2008
Posts: 2,160
Anders is on a distinguished road
Default

If I understand this right, the 1 1/8" is for power brakes. Thatīs what my Shop Manual says anyway.
The problem is that when I ordered the rebuild kit for my ī58, with power brakes, It didnīt fit, as the 1" was installed in the car. I have no idea if this is done at the factory or sometime after. So I cleaned everything and put it together again ( lot of stuff to clean in there...), it worked pretty good as a matter of fact.
So now I have a new 1 1/8" rebuild kit in the spares....
__________________
..."Lil darling Ruth"
http://www.tbirdregistry.com/#33158
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-09-2009, 09:55 AM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 9 2008
Posts: 31
Tuxedo is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok, so based on the writing on the passenger side of the master cylinder "1 DIA", I have the 1" diameter version. I'm going to remove it tonight hopefully and see what it looks like on the inside and go from there.

Thanks again!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-17-2009, 04:08 PM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 9 2008
Posts: 31
Tuxedo is on a distinguished road
Default

Got the rebuild kit from AutoZone and had pops put it back together with a quick hone. I pulled the driver side wheel cylinder off and white powder poured out... very dry and probably aren't usuable so that will be the next purchase. I was going to try and get away with the wheel cylinder kits to avoid the expense of new cylinders, but oh well.

I do have a question for you all though, my car is supposedly low mileage (about 50k) and I was wondering if there would be any oem markings on the front pads that may suggest them as original. Anybody know if there is a way to tell if these might be the original pads?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-17-2009, 07:21 PM
JohnG's Avatar
JohnG JohnG is offline
John
 
Join Date: Jul 28 2003
Posts: 2,229
JohnG is on a distinguished road
Default

how much are stores charging you guys for rebuild kits??I went to rebuild mine a few years ago and no kit was available locally but they did have an entire MC. I'd have to look for the slip but I think I paid about $45. The original one looked pretty raunchy inside and it was not clear there was no pitting of the body so a new one seemed like a good idea at the time. I know there are shops that will re-sleeve the bore if moisture has attacked it.Given the choice, I would opt for the 1 1/8 version as it would provide a bit more braking power. I could see taking a 1 inch bore MC and having it machined out - both to clean it up and also to accept the larger piston. These things are certainly not over-endowed with braking!! John
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-17-2009, 07:57 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
Super-Experienced
 
Join Date: Nov 6 2006
Posts: 907
tbirds8 is on a distinguished road
Default

Just get new wheel cylinders. By the time your done monkeying around with the old ones they might leak anyway andIthink they'er aroud$20 bucks.The brake shoes might have a ford stamp on them. But at 50000 that's prob. the 4th set of brakes on there
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-17-2009, 08:50 PM
Penelope's Avatar
Penelope Penelope is offline
Busted Knuckles
 
Join Date: Mar 4 2008
Posts: 629
Penelope is on a distinguished road
Default

I agree, get the new wheel cylinders, rears are either $20 for the RHS or $22 for the LHS from Larrys, but they are standard 7/8".
__________________
Bill
Thunderbird Registry 21903 & 33405
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-18-2009, 12:15 PM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 9 2008
Posts: 31
Tuxedo is on a distinguished road
Default

I paid $40 for the master cylinder kit including shipping. Admittedly, that was more than what Larry's and Mac's charge I believe... but that is another story.

As far as the wheel cylinders go, Mac's has $41 for the right and $32 for the left front... $27 each for the rear.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-18-2009, 03:20 PM
simplyconnected's Avatar
simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
Slow Typist
 
Join Date: May 26 2009
Posts: 7,156
simplyconnected is on a distinguished road
Default

I have learned to never assume, especially when wrenching. I use all my senses now, and I test everything.

I had a '64 Tempest that was due for a brake change. Three original shoes were worn, the RH rear brake was like new. So, a gas station mechanic changed all the shoes.

Upon checking, I noticed that RH rear brake could spin, even with the pedal depressed (e-brake worked ok). Took it apart, pulled the wheel cylinder, and I found:
The oem (Wagner, if I remember right) didn't drill the hydraulic hole through the wheel cylinder. No brake fluid was going inside at all!

Here's the lesson learned: Even when you buy new cylinders, don't assume they are perfect. I ALWAYS take mine apart and check inside. It takes one minute.

Another help: Pull your bleeder valves out, wrap teflon tape around the threads, and use those little rubber dust caps. In 24,000 miles, when you change brake fluid, your bleeder valves will unscrew just fine.

New or rebuilt M/C? Learn the simple task of 'bench bleeding'. It pays off big.
__________________
My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:25 PM.

Driving, racing or working on cars can be hazardous. The procedures and advice on this website including the message board are opinion only. Squarebirds.org and its webmasters and contributors do not guarantee the correctness of the advice and procedures. The Squarebirds.org and its webmasters assume no liability for any damage, fines, punishment, injury or death resulting from following these procedures or advice. If you do not have the skills or tools to repair your car, please consult a professional. By using this site you agree to hold harmless the Squarebirds.org, its authors and its webmasters from any resulting claim and costs that may occur from using the information found on this site.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Any submissions to this site and any post on this site becomes property of Squarebirds.org . The webmasters reserve the right to edit and modify any submissions to this site. All material on this is site is copyrighted by the Squarebirds.org. Reproduction by any means other than for personal use is strictly prohibited. Permission to use material on this site can be obtained by contacting the webmasters. Copyright 2002-2016 by Squarebirds.org.