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Old 06-08-2009, 11:00 AM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
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Default '60 Master Cylinder Kit

I noticed that there are 2 rebuild kits available for a '60 with power steering. How do I find out which one is the right one for a '60 with power steering and no AC?
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:38 AM
GTE427 GTE427 is offline
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I can't answer your question directly regarding PS, no AC.
However, there are two Master Cylinders (MC) found on the Squarebirds today, with either a 1" bore or a 1 1/8" bore. Look at the side of your MC and the size will be cast into the MC. This is the only difference I know of for our MC's, and the kits should be sold accordingly. The 60 should have a 1" bore, and these are the more common, check the casting for size before ordering as you just never know after 49 years.
1959 J Convertible
1960 J Hardtop

Last edited by GTE427 : 06-08-2009 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:48 AM
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Anders Anders is offline
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If I understand this right, the 1 1/8" is for power brakes. Thatīs what my Shop Manual says anyway.
The problem is that when I ordered the rebuild kit for my ī58, with power brakes, It didnīt fit, as the 1" was installed in the car. I have no idea if this is done at the factory or sometime after. So I cleaned everything and put it together again ( lot of stuff to clean in there...), it worked pretty good as a matter of fact.
So now I have a new 1 1/8" rebuild kit in the spares....
..."Lil darling Ruth"
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:55 AM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
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Ok, so based on the writing on the passenger side of the master cylinder "1 DIA", I have the 1" diameter version. I'm going to remove it tonight hopefully and see what it looks like on the inside and go from there.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:08 PM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
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Got the rebuild kit from AutoZone and had pops put it back together with a quick hone. I pulled the driver side wheel cylinder off and white powder poured out... very dry and probably aren't usuable so that will be the next purchase. I was going to try and get away with the wheel cylinder kits to avoid the expense of new cylinders, but oh well.

I do have a question for you all though, my car is supposedly low mileage (about 50k) and I was wondering if there would be any oem markings on the front pads that may suggest them as original. Anybody know if there is a way to tell if these might be the original pads?
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:21 PM
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JohnG JohnG is offline
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how much are stores charging you guys for rebuild kits??I went to rebuild mine a few years ago and no kit was available locally but they did have an entire MC. I'd have to look for the slip but I think I paid about $45. The original one looked pretty raunchy inside and it was not clear there was no pitting of the body so a new one seemed like a good idea at the time. I know there are shops that will re-sleeve the bore if moisture has attacked it.Given the choice, I would opt for the 1 1/8 version as it would provide a bit more braking power. I could see taking a 1 inch bore MC and having it machined out - both to clean it up and also to accept the larger piston. These things are certainly not over-endowed with braking!! John
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:57 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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Just get new wheel cylinders. By the time your done monkeying around with the old ones they might leak anyway andIthink they'er aroud$20 bucks.The brake shoes might have a ford stamp on them. But at 50000 that's prob. the 4th set of brakes on there
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:50 PM
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Penelope Penelope is offline
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I agree, get the new wheel cylinders, rears are either $20 for the RHS or $22 for the LHS from Larrys, but they are standard 7/8".
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:15 AM
Tuxedo Tuxedo is offline
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I paid $40 for the master cylinder kit including shipping. Admittedly, that was more than what Larry's and Mac's charge I believe... but that is another story.

As far as the wheel cylinders go, Mac's has $41 for the right and $32 for the left front... $27 each for the rear.
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Old 06-18-2009, 02:20 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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I have learned to never assume, especially when wrenching. I use all my senses now, and I test everything.

I had a '64 Tempest that was due for a brake change. Three original shoes were worn, the RH rear brake was like new. So, a gas station mechanic changed all the shoes.

Upon checking, I noticed that RH rear brake could spin, even with the pedal depressed (e-brake worked ok). Took it apart, pulled the wheel cylinder, and I found:
The oem (Wagner, if I remember right) didn't drill the hydraulic hole through the wheel cylinder. No brake fluid was going inside at all!

Here's the lesson learned: Even when you buy new cylinders, don't assume they are perfect. I ALWAYS take mine apart and check inside. It takes one minute.

Another help: Pull your bleeder valves out, wrap teflon tape around the threads, and use those little rubber dust caps. In 24,000 miles, when you change brake fluid, your bleeder valves will unscrew just fine.

New or rebuilt M/C? Learn the simple task of 'bench bleeding'. It pays off big.
My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
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