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  #11  
Old 05-03-2009, 06:06 PM
Mintgreenbird Mintgreenbird is offline
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Default Valves

Barry

OK after consulting this morning with some real gear heads --they have come up with some interesting speculations on you eng---

1. when the seats were installed they were not put in to the exact depth as the old valve seats (i am told this is very common) that will make the lifters very hard to set correctly ----

2. there are ajustable push rods--(racers use them) that can be bought for the eng that way no mater how the seats were installed you can still dile the eng in.

now as for setting the push rods Ill quote from the book
"rotate the crankshaft until No1 piston is on T.D.C. an the end of the compression stroke. With the No.1 piston on T.D.C., check the following valves
No. 1 intake No. 1 exhaust
No. 3 intake No. 4 exhaust
No. 7 intake No. 5 exhaust
No. 8 intake No. 8 exhaust

Position No 6 piston on T.D.C. and check the following valves
No. 2 intake No. 2 exhaust
No. 4 intake No. 3 exhaust
No. 5 intake No. 6 exhaust
No. 6 intake No. 7 exhaust

Upon replacement of a valve push rod and/or valve rocker arm shaft assembly, the engine should not be cranked or rotated until the hydraulic lifters have had an opportunity to leak down to their normal operationg position. the leak down rate can e accelerated by using the tool shown in figure 2 ( ford tool #T58P-6565-A) on the rocker arm, apply pressure in a direction to collapse the lifter."


I do hope this helps--- if you need to reach me just call or email me ---- 562-537-2964 or EMAILFORLIGHTS@YAHOO.COM
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1959 TBird hard top
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  #12  
Old 05-03-2009, 09:47 PM
barrysmith barrysmith is offline
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THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!

That gives me a lot of good info. to help resolve my problem.
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2009, 11:44 PM
Mintgreenbird Mintgreenbird is offline
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Glad to help anyone here -- Ray always comes through for the information I need!
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1959 TBird hard top
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2009, 02:30 PM
Hawkrod Hawkrod is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrysmith View Post
Hello everyone, got the oil pumping again, oil drive shaft was floating.

Now time to set valve lash.

Can someone tell me the procedure for adjusting the lash on a hydrualic lifter with non adjustable rockers.

I started the car for a couple of min. but it ran very bad and fell dead, I am assuming it is bad or incorrect valve lash.

Timing is good and I have a rebuilt holly 750 on it.

I have read you have to set preload and then the lash.

I read the instructions online for the 58, but I beleive it is for adjustable rockers.

Thanks,
Barry
I was gone for the weekend so just saw this, are you saying the oil pump push rod was not in the hole? I am not sure what you mean by floating. As far as the new lifters pumping up. Hydraulic lifters do have an operating range. Modern ones are not as critical as the old ones due to the way they operate but it may well be that your new lifters require a very different pushrod length. Unfortunately Ford did play with push rod length a little bit, 1958-64 should be 9.58 for most, 1964-1968 are 9.62 and 1968-1976 are 9.59. Because replacement lifters are all the newer design a 9.58 or 9.59 lifter should work but a 9.62 will probably not. You may simply have the wrong ones by a bunch. A good machine shop would have measured the valve stem installed height and adjusted it when doing the valve job but as mentioned that could be an issue as well. Hawkrod
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  #15  
Old 05-06-2009, 10:17 AM
barrysmith barrysmith is offline
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Spoke with the machine shop, they said all valves are the same height.
Installed the exhaust seats first and then ground the intake to match.

I read a couple of places that if you remove the rocker arm assembly, mark the end of the rocker tappet with a marks allot real good, reinstall and turn over the engine a couple of times, then remove assemblies and look at the wear pattern on valve stems.

If it is inward toward the intake then the rods are to short, outward towards the exhaust then to long, it should be in the middle with no more than .080 mark.

Any one else tried this?

I am having difficulties getting the lifter to collapse to check the air gap as instructed.

As far as the oil pump drive shaft, it came out with the distributor after last removal.
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  #16  
Old 05-06-2009, 06:47 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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Your right with the push rods. You shouldn't have to be adjusting anything. These are self adjusting. Not solids that you have to adjust. Any FE block i did I went to napa and got a couple boxes of push rods. They weren't that much and i think there was 4 or 5 in a box. Might be a little more nowadays! just a thought!
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