Master cyl. bleeding

[JohnG]

Question: What did a Ford mechanic do back in 1958??? No "bleed kits" then that I know if - I think these began to appear in the 70s.

[rhertel]

bench

When the master cylinder is mounted on the car, the cylinder bore never completely bottoms out. Thus the is always a high possibility of air left in the system. If the master runs out of fluid while bleeding, there is alway some fluid left in the m/c bore.
This type of bleeding with no fluid return has only been recommended for the last several years. Today when you purchase a new or rebuild m/c, there are plugs in the box. Why we like the type of bleeding, is when you finish bleeding the cylinder on the bench, you leave the plug in the master, and the is no fluid dripping during the transfer.

With a single m/c, you could problem get away with doing the bleeding on the car, but why take a chance. For those that have to bleed brakes alone, the do sell self bleeding wheel cylinders bleeder screws. They allow fluid to be pushed out, but not to return. You would swap out the bleeder with these, slightly open the bleeder for the wheel to be bleed. Put a piece of hose on the end of the bleeder and into a container. Pump the brakes, fluid and air will come out, but the stop fluid and air from returning. Close that bleeder and move on to the next. They look like regular bleeders, so there would be no point deductions.
Hope this help clear things up.
Rich

[KULTULZ]

Question: What did a Ford mechanic do back in 1958??? No "bleed kits" then that I know if - I think these began to appear in the 70s.

Most likely stood around and argued like we are doing...

In a garage, you will have mechanics that have been taught different ways at different shops. For one to actually open a shop manual would be a sign of weakness. So then you always get a couple that will put them in a vice, fill them up and proceed to see how far they can shoot brake fluid across the shop.

You will get used to it.

[rhertel]

Pressure bleeeding

Yes they did have bleed tools in the 50's. Pressure bleeders, a big roll around assembly that was full of brake fluid and had a fitting to insert shop air. You would put the adapter that was made for you particular m/c, add pressure to the tool, and force bleed the brake system. I still have one, up in the attic and has not been used for years.

That is in the shop manual.

Rich

Yes every one has learned different techniques through the years, but it is nice to share new ways of doing things.

[1960Bird]

The 1960 Shop Manual says...

After all this I dug out my 1960 Shop Manual.

Group 10-6 Section 3 of the Shop manual

"To Install the New Master Cylinder..."

"Install the brake fittings, gaskets and bolt on the forward end of the cylinder. Do not tighten the Brake Bolt.

Fill the master cylinder reservoir with heavy duty brake fluid to within 1/2 inch of the top of the filler neck.

Push down on the brake pedal several times to let the air escape from the cylinder at the fitting, and then tighten the brake bolt"

The Shop Manual shows that the Brake Bolt is the Banjo bolt that connects to the front of the master cylinder.

The Shop Manual also has instructions for pressure bleeding of the brake lines with some sort of a pressure bleeder that you charged the pressure tank with 10-30 pounds of air pressure.

[1960Bird]

Got Brakes...

First I installed speed bleeders as I had to do the brake bleeding by myself. I tried the Shop Manual approach (see above) did not work at all. Then I installed a short length of brake tubing I had, to the output fitting from the master cylinder and ran it back into the master cylinder making sure it was covered with brake fluid. I pumped the brakes five or six times...out came some air bubbles, then none and the pedal got hard. Put the regular brake line back on the Master Cylinder and bleed the brakes. Bingo. I have brakes and they are not at all spongy.
The speed bleeders worked good, although I had to really get them tight for them to seal OK.

[Guest]

When bench bleeding or on the car to bleed the master cyl. DO NOT PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL ALL THE WAY DONE UNITL YOU GET THE AIR OUT OF THE MASTER CLY.then when you start bleeding each line pump your brake peddle 4-5 times and hold down open brake bleed to remove air, I used alumium foil instead of rages to drain away the brake fluid away from any painted surfaces.