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  #11  
Old 12-06-2007, 01:12 AM
FeFranco FeFranco is offline
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Why don't you take it to a mechanic and have them listen to it? Also, to eliminate any sound coming from the water pump/ps pump, remove the fan belts for 30 seconds.
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2007, 08:35 AM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FeFranco View Post
Why don't you take it to a mechanic and have them listen to it? Also, to eliminate any sound coming from the water pump/ps pump, remove the fan belts for 30 seconds.

I wanted to remove the belts yesterday evening but did not have time...and kids' soccer prevents my being able to do that today...but that is my next step, to eliminate the possibility it is the water pump. It sounds too deep to be the pump, but it is close enough...so close to it that my first step needs to be eliminating that possibility.

If it continues, I am indeed going to take it to a mechanic. I have found one in the area whose specialty is older and antique autos, so I think I will introduce his shop to my Tbird.

I don't mind re-working an engine, in fact, I enjoy that...and it would give me the chance to tackle the engine-bay, and make a front-end rebuild easier....but I'd rather it be something I choose to start rather than something I am forced into.



Thanks for all the replies.
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  #13  
Old 12-06-2007, 06:22 PM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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Well, it is definitely worse than better.

I unhooked all belts and ran the engine, duplicated the sound...so it can't be the water-pump, power steering, or generator (Which I had ruled out all but possibly the water pump, anyway).

The fuel pump is the next to come off, but I jacked the car up, used a hose to point to various locations on the under-side of the block, and I think it is definitely coming from the area of the number-1 piston/piston-rod.



It looks bad...like motor-removing time....
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  #14  
Old 12-24-2007, 06:26 PM
tbird430convt tbird430convt is offline
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Default rear main

Although you had the engine rebuilt 9 years ago the lack of usage is bad. The oil all goes back down and when you start it the crank is dry. Since the rear bearing is farthest from the oil pump and carries the most weight it takes a beating.The relationship between the rear main bearing and the oil pump is a flaw in most Ford engines. FE and Windsors always suffered from flickering oil lights. In gear with the engine hot does your oil light flicker?
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  #15  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:57 AM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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It is the number one piston pin. I'm getting a complete overhaul while the engine's out.
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  #16  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:52 PM
tbird430convt tbird430convt is offline
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Default wrist pin

If you have a bad wrist pin the test is to disconnect the spark plug wire. If the noise does not go away it is a wrist pin. If it goes away it is a bearing. Although the engine was rebuilt it is either sludged up or not broken in properly. Before I would go on another overhaul I would run thin oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and try to create a lot of splash internally in the engine to free up the piston pin. Oil pressure is only half the story. Splash is what lubricates the wrist pins,piston rings,camshaft surfaces and timing chains.
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  #17  
Old 12-27-2007, 12:07 AM
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byersmtrco byersmtrco is offline
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Yep . .. what he said
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John Byers
1960 Convertible (Orig owner)
Pic of car with my son Justin (15 Y/O 6'1")
Poss 3rd Gen T/B owner
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