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Old 09-06-2007, 02:42 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Default RE replacement of a 390 rear main

I am getting ready to do this over the weekend, anyone have any good tips and things to watch for?

Right now you can actually see a very thin steady stream of oil coming from the motor at idle....
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Old 09-06-2007, 02:58 PM
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6TB1RD 6TB1RD is offline
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Are you doing this in the car or out ?

either way follow the directions carefully if you bend the tip of the nail 2 much it will cause nothing but headaches trying to get the nail in place. and don't forget the silicone sealant around the mating surfaces or you will have more leaks then when you started
George (Papa of 9)
1960 H/T :rolleyes:
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:10 AM
FeFranco FeFranco is offline
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Default Curious

How many miles on the motor and did you try any oil additive that can swell up the rear main to slow up/stop the leak?
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:44 AM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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I have no idea on the motor's miles.

But I did drop the rear main over the weekend and found that the motor still was running the FordMoCo bearings in it. stamped 10 71. They are just starting to get into the bronze portion of the bearing.

Looks like someone did replace the rear main and smeared RTV everywhere including on the seal itself. I think they did this beacuase you can feel one spot that is a bit rough.

I thought I would try and use some fine dental polishing wheels to smooth the rough spot and put it back together along with new bearings.

Looks like neither the main bearings or rod bearing have ever been out of the motor.
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Old 09-14-2007, 11:36 AM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Default Was looking at the manual and have a ?

In the manual it says you can't replace the upper seal without pulling the motor, has anyone here done the rear main of an FE with the motor in the car?

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Old 09-14-2007, 12:48 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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tarps3 replaced his and the procedure is in the tech section:

He would be able to give some more advice.
1960 Hard Top/430
Thunderbird Registry Number 1231
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Old 09-16-2007, 10:32 AM
tbird430convt tbird430convt is offline
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Default rear main

You must use a chinese finger(lisle or other brand of tool) to do the upper rear main seal.There are some tricks. You have to soak the rope in oil and roll it until it like dough until it becomes longer and thinner. One end has to be made into a point and placed in the chinese finger. Place the tool around the rear journal of the crank and start to pull through. Here is the big trick.Disconnect the coil.The engine MUST BE cranked while you try to pull the new rope through. It will pull itself around the crank and go right in.I have done 100's of rear main ropes as a mechanic. Even if you are putting in a half rubber seal get it started,put a long thin screwdriver on the other end.Push the seal with the screwdriver and again crank the engine and it will go right in.
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Old 09-17-2007, 01:03 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Well, I spent most of yesterday and Sat working on the car.

It had neoprene rear main in it, someone bent the thing really badly installing it and also manged to damage the surface a bit.

I managed to install the new neoprene seal with no real issues so far. Then went to replacing all the main and rod bearings. Very strange the #1 rod is a coper or bronze color. It is a very different color than the rest of the rods.

So my last job now is dealing with those side seals, the set in the car didn't have any pins installed.

Boy do I feel it today in my shoulders, doing it in the car is alot of work
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