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  #1  
Old 01-27-2018, 04:34 PM
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sidewalkman sidewalkman is offline
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Default Exhaust manifold help

Hi Guys, Happy New Year. Mines starting with the ongoing chore of replacing the exhaust gaskets at the head and exhaust pipes.

I'm looking at the manual and I see there are 3 flat gaskets required, 2 on that valve contraption and 1 on the left side but when I pulled the pipes off on the drivers side there was a donut gasket in there. I'm thinking the PO made a mistake but I'm going to defer to your expertise. Is one required?

On another note I have a second set of heads I'm thinking about using, they've had hardened seats installed and have some miles on them and the PO said they were good no oil getting past the valves etc but is there something I should look for? Other than carbon the valves all look good, no burning or scorching and the aren't bent.
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2018, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
Hi Guys, Happy New Year. Mines starting with the ongoing chore of replacing the exhaust gaskets at the head and exhaust pipes.

I'm looking at the manual and I see there are 3 flat gaskets required, 2 on that valve contraption and 1 on the left side but when I pulled the pipes off on the drivers side there was a donut gasket in there. I'm thinking the PO made a mistake but I'm going to defer to your expertise. Is one required?
No. There should be no donut, only flat gaskets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
On another note I have a second set of heads I'm thinking about using, they've had hardened seats installed and have some miles on them and the PO said they were good no oil getting past the valves etc but is there something I should look for? Other than carbon the valves all look good, no burning or scorching and the aren't bent.
If they have hardened valve seats I would certainly use them. I would remove the valve springs and check for play in the valve guides rather than trust what the PO said.

John
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Last edited by jopizz : 01-27-2018 at 08:02 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-27-2018, 06:44 PM
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The drivers side 352 manifold has an indentation to give a little extra clearance to the steering box and flat gasket at the exhaust connection - no gasket at the head (found that out the hard way).

Pretty sure a later 390 manifold will fit in the Squarebird engine compartment and those later 390 maifolds had donuts where the exhaust attached - maybe the drivers side manifold was replaced at some point and that's why it has the donut?

Check out this old thread on the trouble I had using gaskets between the head and manifold.
http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=16727

Hope your New Year gets better from here on out (like maybe a few nice drives with the Squarebird) rather than wrenching on it.

Eric
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Old 01-28-2018, 12:38 AM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
Hi Guys, Happy New Year. Mines starting with the ongoing chore of replacing the exhaust gaskets at the head and exhaust pipes.

I'm looking at the manual and I see there are 3 flat gaskets required, 2 on that valve contraption and 1 on the left side but when I pulled the pipes off on the drivers side there was a donut gasket in there. I'm thinking the PO made a mistake but I'm going to defer to your expertise. Is one required?

On another note I have a second set of heads I'm thinking about using, they've had hardened seats installed and have some miles on them and the PO said they were good no oil getting past the valves etc but is there something I should look for? Other than carbon the valves all look good, no burning or scorching and the aren't bent.
Greetings. Commented on the previous thread concerning the intake manifold.

You may have later style exhaust manifolds. You can check the date codes cast into them. I know of a pair of 1968 exhaust manifolds where the exit diameter was larger than the early sixties manifolds.

If you are concerned with port matching, also refer to the date codes on the second set of cylinder heads and the measurements of the exhaust ports. Best Regards.
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2018, 10:03 PM
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if you've got the valve springs off to check the valves out, put new seals one. One less thing to worry about later on.

Check the heads for flatness. Costs nothing, easy to do.
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  #6  
Old 01-29-2018, 08:57 AM
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Cool

John good advice and you are correct

Check the heads for flatness. Costs nothing, easy to do.
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  #7  
Old 01-29-2018, 10:32 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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May I just say I recall my brother's 1964 T-Bird as a quieter car than my 1960. I'm referring to interior engine-exhaust noise aside from what's at the tail pipes. The "muffler exhaust" sounds similar, but the interior engine noise seems much more prominent in mine.

Is this a probable factor of a leaky manifold exhaust gasket? Or the nature of the beast? (I realize I should just crawl under the car while it's running.)

Dean
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Old 01-29-2018, 11:43 AM
pbf777 pbf777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
On another note I have a second set of heads I'm thinking about using,..........the PO said they were good no oil getting past the valves etc but is there something I should look for?
In response, I would suggest that you find, and deliver, these cylinder heads to a reputable machine shop for an Inspection & Advize Service; before one incurs the time, labor and component costs involved in the installation of such, of unknown condition.

The shop should be contracted to disassemble the cylinder heads and inspect for their current condition including:
Deck Surfaces for flatness
Exhaust & Intake Faces for flatness
Valve to Guide clearances
Valve Face & Seating Surfaces for quality of previous
work & current condition.
Valve Train Components for condition including current
spring pressures
and perhaps, Magnaflux castings for cracks,
and perhaps, Pressure Testing for coolant leaks.

If these units are found (or made) acceptable, I would also consider having them machined (if not already done) for a Positive Control (P.C.) type valve seal, with new seals installed upon reassembly.

Unless something proves amiss, at which point you'll be glad you had them checked-out prior to their installation, costs for such inspection service should not be great, and well worth the piece-of-mind vs. the otherwise unknown.

Scott.
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