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  #11  
Old 10-15-2017, 03:36 PM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
Was under it for 3 hours last night. the drivers side outside lower nut on the stud for the exhaust pipe is being a puke. Might be stripped. it loosened about a 1/4 inch then I run into the socket hitting the frame right there. I'm trying a different socket this weekend. I need to drop the pipes to access the bottom manifold bolts.

And John, there is no chance at all that there was never seize on them, lol. I might end up pulling the head, I am through driving it this summer anyway and I would like to look at the valve train. I have a gut feeling that the intake water jackets might be partially plugged just by the burnt paint on the intake. I flushed it during the summer and the crap that came out was pretty ugly.

I must say, that motor is shoe horned in there!!! I have the car on jack stands on the front frame and it might make fife easier to undo the nuts on the motor mounts and lift the motor an inch or two.

Thoughts?
On our old bird there was another set to go on, the original bolts that wouldn't budge were ground off, lifted what was left of the exhaust manifold and removed the remaining bolts with heat and vice grips. Not any help if you are re-using the exhaust manifolds. Good luck. I think they built the body first and then tried to figure out how to jam the engine in. lol
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2017, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Woobie View Post
On our old bird there was another set to go on, the original bolts that wouldn't budge were ground off, lifted what was left of the exhaust manifold and removed the remaining bolts with heat and vice grips. Not any help if you are re-using the exhaust manifolds. Good luck. I think they built the body first and then tried to figure out how to jam the engine in. lol
I'm pulling the top of the motor off, I have the luxury of having a spare 60 352 so I'm going to liberate the heads off of it to compare which is better, then plane and replace, same with the manifolds. Is there a way to block the crossover? I'm gutting the heat riser valve of course. No point, especially now with the electric choke!
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  #13  
Old 10-23-2017, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
...Is there a way to block the crossover?..
I use simple shim stock. It comes in rolls that most tool & die or machine shops buy.

You don't need much and it doesn't need to be thick. Simply surround the gasket with a 1/4" of .020-.025" shim then bolt her down.

Ford dropped the engine and trans in place as one unit. The engine was fully dressed, complete with exhaust manifolds. Trying to remove exhaust manifolds in the car is impossible.

For any engine this age, it's always best to pull the heads not only to work on manifolds but to change the head gaskets. Over time, head gaskets rust through the cooling ports. This causes the engine to overheat because coolant never gets to the rear cylinders. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2017, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I use simple shim stock. It comes in rolls that most tool & die or machine shops buy.

You don't need much and it doesn't need to be thick. Simply surround the gasket with a 1/4" of .020-.025" shim then bolt her down.

- Dave
Thanks Dave, although I'm confused. Mostly because I haven't seen what the cross over looks like but I'd imagine it looks like a small port on the intake? Can you describe what you mean by surrounding the gasket with shim stock?
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:59 AM
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Look at the picture 5 posts ago. There is a new intake manifold that's upside down with a blue gasket over the intake ports.

Notice that one large gasket port just left of center has no hole in the intake manifold. That's the crossover port. OEM intake manifolds and heads have the hole.

The shim stock must cover the crossover hole on all sides. - Dave
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  #16  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:35 PM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
I'm pulling the top of the motor off, I have the luxury of having a spare 60 352 so I'm going to liberate the heads off of it to compare which is better, then plane and replace, same with the manifolds. Is there a way to block the crossover? I'm gutting the heat riser valve of course. No point, especially now with the electric choke!
Yes, truly a luxury.
If it was recently rebuilt, then things should be fairly clean on the underside of the intake manifold and valley. On ours, a thick oil sludge was present so there was alot of cleaning involved, and then the nearly blocked oil pump pickup, scarey.

But for the exhaust crossover we recessed a piece of 3/16 aluminum with high heat epoxy. Covered with the orange exhaust permatex flush with the exhaust crossover port and then the S-3 intake manifold gaskets from Fel-Pro. The S-3's are not a perfect port match but we wanted the metal core on the gaskets.
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