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  #1  
Old 09-01-2017, 10:54 PM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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Default Power steering system leaking

Sitting for 20 years has taken it's tole on many of the seals.

Right now I have a huge steering fluid leak. Looks like it's coming from the end of the ram and the control valve.

The control valve appears to be "new". Looks like it was replaced shortly before the car was parked.
The steering system is working properly, just leaking a lot.

I'm going to rebuild the ram and the control valve. Seems this site has everything I'll need.

http://www.dearbornclassics.com/stee...d-related.html

The question is, what should I expect when I take the control valve and the ram apart.
I think the ram should be straight forward, I'm concerned about taking the control valve apart.

Any thoughts on these procedures is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2017, 11:13 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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I've had poor results lately rebuilding the control valve. The new seals don't seem to be up to the standard of the originals. On the last one I had I tried twice before I wound up sending it away to be rebuilt. If you want to give it a try just follow the instructions in the shop manual. As for the ram you shouldn't have any issues. Getting all the old parts out is the hardest part.

John
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:19 PM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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There's a place called steer and gear that does the valve rebuilding for Mac's. I talked to them a while ago, they seemed really helpful and knowledgeable.

Think I'll get the valve rebuild kit from them. Then hopefully I'll get a quality kit.

Anything tricky about the valve rebuild?
Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2017, 11:52 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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There's nothing tricky about it. Just make sure the cylinder and spool valve are in good condition and not scored.

John
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2017, 12:12 AM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
There's nothing tricky about it. Just make sure the cylinder and spool valve are in good condition and not scored.

John
I think the insides of the valve at least should be good. The valve appears to be basically new. The cylinder looks to be well worn. I'll see when I open them up.

Thanks again.
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2017, 12:17 AM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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I'd be willing to bet, that back in the day, if you took your new TBird back to the dealer for warranty work, and told them the P/S was leaking, they would probably say that's normal. ;-)
Nyles
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:08 AM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1044 View Post
I'd be willing to bet, that back in the day, if you took your new TBird back to the dealer for warranty work, and told them the P/S was leaking, they would probably say that's normal. ;-)
Nyles
Don't know if this is a common issue here. Mine is now almost spraying out fluid. It didn't have a leak a few weeks ago when I first started it.
It'd be nice to drive it more than a few miles at a time and then not have to park it for a week or two to fix something.
Soon!!
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:19 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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I recall servicing the control valve as an easier task than a remove and install procedure. The guts can come out while on the car (take photos of the order of the parts). Pulling the pitman arm is a bugger, and so go the obvious route first.

Dean
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2017, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanj View Post
I recall servicing the control valve as an easier task than a remove and install procedure. The guts can come out while on the car (take photos of the order of the parts). Pulling the pitman arm is a bugger, and so go the obvious route first.

Dean
Dean is correct. You can remove the spool part from the rest of the valve and put in new seals without removing the entire control valve from the pitman arm.

John
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:28 PM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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I just logged on to ask for help in pulling the pitman arm. Yeah, it ain't coming off. I was about to use a torch, but thought I'd ask first.

Should I start the disassembly of the valve from the front, or back, or just start taking it apart and it'll be obvious as I go?

Thanks.
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