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  #11  
Old 07-04-2017, 04:29 AM
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I have just found this thread after searching for solutions for my 65 Bird.

Is the removal of the selector knob the same as this 59 unit?

Does the 65 switch have fuses mounted onto it in a similar way?

I hope to retain the original switch as, being in the UK, parts are expensive due to shipping charges. Mac Auto's want about $90 for a new switch but would also charge about $60 to ship it to me.

Where else can I go for a cheaper supplier who ships internationally?
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2017, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billy whizz View Post
My 65 Landau just failed it's UK MOT road test because of faults on the headlights. There is no low beam and when I press the foot switch to activate high beam both lights on the passenger side go out.

I have remade fresh and good earth connections on both sides and checked the condition of the reb/black wire which i believe powers these lights. Everything in the engine bay seems Ok.

Now I need to check at the headlight selector switch, but I cannot get it off the dashboard, despite following the manual's instructions. I cannot get the knob out to start it's removal. Any suggestions?

Should I also suspect the foot switch as it's use is when the high beam goes wrong?
Definitely make sure the dimmer switch is clean of corrosion and working . If not it will create high resistance and the circuit breaker in the light switch will open causing the lights to go out
and back on repeatedly . From your other post, yes there is a spring loaded button on top of the switch to depress to pull out the knob/shaft .
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  #13  
Old 07-04-2017, 08:24 AM
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YellowRose YellowRose is offline
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Default Headlight problems

Geoff, I see that Martin has provided you with some information on that foot switch, and getting that headlight switch out. Here is some additional information from the Technical Resource Library. It pertains to the Squarebird primarily, but Martin says (and he knows a lot about Tbirds) that there is that locking button on the Flairbirds just like there is on the Squarebirds.

First of it, the instructions say to disconnect the battery before working on that headlight switch because it is HOT, and you might blow something. Read the instructions first. As I recall, to get that knob and shaft out, you need to get a flat head screwdriver to the top of the switch. Find that round button and press down on it, with the knob and shaft pushed all the way IN. Pushing down on that round button on top of the switch should release the shaft and you should be able to pull it straight out. Then you can get the switch out to work on it.

Here are a couple of links to this from the TRL

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_g...%20Repairs.htm

http://squarebirds.org/images_headlight_switch/

Keep in mind they were written with the Squarebird in mind. If you do not have the wiring schematics, look in the TRL under Wiring Diagrams and you will find them also for your Flairbird.
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  #14  
Old 07-04-2017, 08:45 AM
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Default Headlight switch shaft removal

Geoff, I moved your thread out of the Squarebirds Forum and merged it with this one in the Flairbirds Forum. Yes, the Flairbirds shaft removal seems to be similar to the Flairbirds as it is for Squarebirds. Someone who owns a Flairbird should be able to answer your question regarding the fuses on the back of that switch.

The Bird Nest in Oregon has that headlight switch for the '65-'66 for $59.95 + shipping and a different one for a '64. Make sure you order the correct switch if you have to buy one. It is Stock #11654D in their catalog, http://www.tbirdparts.com

Here is a video from the Bird Nest on where that button release is located at on a Flairbird and how to take out and put back in a headlight switch. Now in this video, on the '64-'66 Flairbird, I see he said to pull out the headlight switch slightly, and THEN push down on that button to release the shaft and pull it out. Also, you will see that button is different and in a different position on the Flairbird switch than on the Squarebird. I do not see any fuses on the Flairbird headlight switch. Perhaps because they are in a fuse box on it, unlike the Squarebird. I am about to add that video (that I did not know existed until I checked the Bird Nest Flairbird headlight switch part #) and add it to the TRL!

https://www.facebook.com/11058130567...7076366355466/
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  #15  
Old 07-04-2017, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowRose View Post
Geoff, I moved your thread out of the Squarebirds Forum and merged it with this one in the Flairbirds Forum. Yes, the Flairbirds shaft removal seems to be similar to the Flairbirds as it is for Squarebirds. Someone who owns a Flairbird should be able to answer your question regarding the fuses on the back of that switch.

The Bird Nest in Oregon has that headlight switch for the '65-'66 for $59.95 + shipping and a different one for a '64. Make sure you order the correct switch if you have to buy one. It is Stock #11654D in their catalog, http://www.tbirdparts.com

Here is a video from the Bird Nest on where that button release is located at on a Flairbird and how to take out and put back in a headlight switch. Now in this video, on the '64-'66 Flairbird, I see he said to pull out the headlight switch slightly, and THEN push down on that button to release the shaft and pull it out. Also, you will see that button is different and in a different position on the Flairbird switch than on the Squarebird. I do not see any fuses on the Flairbird headlight switch. Perhaps because they are in a fuse box on it, unlike the Squarebird. I am about to add that video (that I did not know existed until I checked the Bird Nest Flairbird headlight switch part #) and add it to the TRL!

https://www.facebook.com/11058130567...7076366355466/
No fuses Ray, they have an internal circuit breaker that will reset .
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  #16  
Old 07-04-2017, 09:41 AM
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Default Headlight Problems & Switch Shaft Removal

Thanks, Martin! From the sounds of the problem I figure it might be in that foot switch. Hopefully, he will find the problem there and be able to fix it. Thanks, to the Bird Nest, I HAVE added that video clip to the TRL on taking apart the headlight switch. I looked at their listing for the Bulletbird and they did not have that video for it, nor for the Squarebird. But we have the latter covered. I also see according to their website, that they have two versions of the Squarebird headlight switch available! An import reproduction (China?) for $59.95, which tells me the Flairbird version is also an import, and a limited stock NOS version for $119.95 for the Squarebirds.
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  #17  
Old 07-04-2017, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billy whizz View Post
...There is no low beam and when I press the foot switch to activate high beam both lights on the passenger side go out.

I have remade fresh and good earth connections on both sides and checked the condition of the reb/black wire which i believe powers these lights...

Should I also suspect the foot switch as it's use is when the high beam goes wrong?
Let's examine your headlight operation BEFORE buying parts... TRL Wiring diagrams #14 & 15 tell the story...
One wire from your headlight switch (red/yellow) feeds the High/Low beam foot switch. If you get any headlights at all, the headlight switch IS ok.

The Foot Switch determines which beams turn on. One wire feeds the switch (red/yellow, as mentioned) and two wires exit, one for high beam (green/black) and the other for low beam (red/black). Both sets of headlights are connected in parallel which means, if the left side low beam works, the right is simply paralleled but more importantly, all wiring back to the foot switch must be good. Both headlights are 'jumpered' together within the plugs and receptacles.
The exact same holds true for the upper (or high) beam.

Time to break out the test light or volt meter. Turn on your low beams. Connect one prod to ground. (I like to start at the 'thing' that isn't working and work my way back to the source.) Poke the other prod into the LH headlight wire (red/black). You should see 12-volts. If you do, try the same red/black wire on the RH headlight. If you get 12-volts, your ground is bad. If you don't get 12-volts, examine the plug by the LH headlight. Pull it apart and look for green corrosion or burn marks. If you don't find power at the plug, head toward the foot switch and test the wire there.

Next, ring out the high beam wire (green/black). It's in the same plug. Do not get sidetracked and do one circuit at a time. Let's hear what you found. - Dave
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  #18  
Old 07-05-2017, 03:59 AM
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Thanks for your prompt help Dave and Ray. The symptoms are this:
1. I get no low beam at all when using the headlight switch in the first pull position.

2. On second pull position I get the outer lights on.

3. When i press the foot switch I get high beam on the outer headlight and inner headlight comes on, but only on the drivers side. Both lights are off on the passenger side.

I looked at it with the MOT inspector who failed the car and he thought it was a bad earth on the passenger side. However, all the earths on that side have been cleaned and are sound. I have even tried double earthing it by taking another wire form the original front panel earth and making another ground on clean steel on the inner wheel arch.

I did the same on the drivers side. My lights were earthed to a bolt on the regulator which I cleaned up, then I took another earth to clean steel on the inner wheel arch on that side of the car.

I took the foot switch off yesterday, cleaned it up and cleaned up all the connector lugs. The switch LOOKED fine from the outside. the wiring plug was a little bit split, but the connectors were all cleaned up.

I am OK on mechanicals and bodywork, but electrics has always been a mystery to me...like alchemy, only strange mystics seem to understand it properly!
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  #19  
Old 07-05-2017, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billy whizz View Post
Thanks for your prompt help Dave and Ray. The symptoms are this:
1. I get no low beam at all when using the headlight switch in the first pull position.
That's the way it's supposed to work. The first position only turns on the parking lights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billy whizz View Post
2. On second pull position I get the outer lights on.
That is also correct. It appears that your headlight switch is good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billy whizz View Post
I took the foot switch off yesterday, cleaned it up and cleaned up all the connector lugs. The switch LOOKED fine from the outside. the wiring plug was a little bit split, but the connectors were all cleaned up.
To test whether your dimmer switch is good remove the plug from it. There are three wires; Red/Black, Green/Black and Red/Yellow. Put a jumper wire in the plug from the Red/Yellow to the
Red/Black. Pull the headlight switch all the way out. Your outer lights should go on. Put the jumper wire from the Red/Yellow to the Green/Black. All four lights should be on. If everything now works your dimmer switch is bad.
Since you say that only one side is not working then it appears that it is ok. It appears that the problem is with the high beam circuit on the passenger side (Green/Black). Disconnect the wire connector on that side and clean the connector.

John
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Last edited by jopizz : 07-05-2017 at 12:34 PM.
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