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  #11  
Old 04-18-2017, 07:49 PM
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John is on the money, here. When a starter motor cranks, the battery voltage goes down. We say this voltage reduction is due to, 'internal battery resistance.' In cold Michigan winters, after the car sat all night, morning starts are more like groans because the battery voltage goes WAY down and oil viscosity goes up, making mechanical resistance much greater.

It doesn't make sense to put further resistance on the ignition circuit when voltage is already low. To 'help' the coil fill, we use a direct (brown) wire to the battery during start-up.

Think about that for a minute. If you lift the hood and simply jump across the starter solenoid, spark plugs WILL FIRE, regardless of key position. So a good mechanic will disconnect the coil's high tension wire while 'bumping' the starter.

Will the engine fire with the key off by jumping from the battery post to the solenoid coil? You betcha.

So, replace the brown wire to your coil (+) post. When working on the engine, disconnect the high voltage coil wire. - Dave
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1044 View Post
Are you still running the Autolite 4100 carburetor? I too had the problem of it going dry after a day or 2. After several attempts, I finally got it fixed. I would set the carburetor on the work bench and the float bowls wouldn't go dry and then I'd put it on the car and I couldn't get them to hold fuel. I finally found that the tapered spacer between the carb and manifold was badly warped and out of shape. I used a flat plate and some fine sandpaper and straightened that tapered spacer. Then I carefully torqued the carb to the manifold and the problem went away.
Just thought I'd let you know what worked for me.
Nyles
Hi Nyles, no, i have an Edelbrock 1405. But what would the warped spacer do to the carburator?Would it twist the housing? We have around 25% of alcohol mixed with the fuel, so could that be a part of the problem?
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2017, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
John is on the money, here. When a starter motor cranks, the battery voltage goes down. We say this voltage reduction is due to, 'internal battery resistance.' In cold Michigan winters, after the car sat all night, morning starts are more like groans because the battery voltage goes WAY down and oil viscosity goes up, making mechanical resistance much greater.

It doesn't make sense to put further resistance on the ignition circuit when voltage is already low. To 'help' the coil fill, we use a direct (brown) wire to the battery during start-up.

Think about that for a minute. If you lift the hood and simply jump across the starter solenoid, spark plugs WILL FIRE, regardless of key position. So a good mechanic will disconnect the coil's high tension wire while 'bumping' the starter.

Will the engine fire with the key off by jumping from the battery post to the solenoid coil? You betcha.

So, replace the brown wire to your coil (+) post. When working on the engine, disconnect the high voltage coil wire. - Dave
I don´t know what the previous owner(s) have been doing to the bird, but the wire harness seems to be new. But there are also still old wires around with the old connectors. Either way, i will put a new brown wire in there, to make the starts easier. Thanks all for the comments.
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2017, 11:18 PM
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As an Electrician Leader in Dearborn Engine Plant, my area of responsibility was the ground floor which included all the machining and balance tooling.

When a piece of automation stopped, all the management would gather around the trouble spot asking, 'Who did this?' and 'How did it happen?' and 'How long will it be down?' None of them understood that we deal with the situation as it is, NOW.

Instead of looking for sources of blame and history lessons, let's fix it and then ask all the questions you like later, when the line is running. Yes, we all want to prevent this from happening again but in your case, this issue isn't applicable. I could run a wire from that solenoid post to the coil in less than five minutes and tie it down, neat and proper, in another five minutes. Done.

We will probably never know who 'did it' or why. Frankly, do we really care? No. Match your wiring to the Ford drawings. If you only have white or black wire, run it anyway and tape the ends brown later on. Now on to the next issue...

BTW, it's just as easy to make your own wire harnesses. Essex Wire made Ford's harnesses to Ford spec's, as cheaply as they could. You can use even better quality wire using just black. The harness is usually taped in its entire length with non-glued black vinyl electrical tape and nobody can see any of the wire colors inside. Only the end colors are what matters. Eg: If you need green-yellow (green with a yellow trace), tape the first 4cm (2") green with a stripe of yellow on the end including the connector barrel. - Dave
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