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  #21  
Old 06-27-2016, 03:06 PM
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Default Some Final Thoughts

At this point, I am trying the spring replacement route. I have got the springs from a kit, and will work on doing those later this week.

I also brougth the vehicle to another shop this morning to have them have a look to see if there is anything else do be done to alleviate the shoes not retracting. Backplate grooved? Collapsed hose? Bad Line?

As for the pull to the right, there seems to be confusion over "pull" vs. "snap" vs. "jerk". All this this happens depending on the pressure applied to the brake.

As I previously described, a gentle "tap" or applicaion of the brake pedal cause immediate "drift/fade/pull" to the right. The harder the pedal is depressed, the harder the "snap" or "jerk".

So if I really hit the brake short of a panic stop, the wheel "snaps/jerks" to the right, and when I release the pedal, the car very quickly "snaps/jerks" to the left in to a straight alignment. this makes driving rather precarious.

I hope that clears the air on that, and I hope this spring suggestion works out.

Again, thank you for your help. Very greatly appreciated. You guys are awesome, and I would not have learned what I have learned with out your experiences and wisdom, and putting up with my mundane ane repetitive quesitons.

I'm out.
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2016, 03:31 PM
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The pull to the right seems to be purely because that particular brake is working properly and the left one is not functioning as it should. My 2-cents worth.
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2016, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumdog View Post
The pull to the right seems to be purely because that particular brake is working properly and the left one is not functioning as it should. My 2-cents worth.
The right front overheats and locks up to the point where he can't spin the wheel. That's not working correctly. If the springs don't alleviate the problem then I suggest you do as I mentioned earlier.

1. Loosen the nuts on the master cylinder and pull it out slightly. If the wheel releases then you need to adjust the push rod.

2. Open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder and release some fluid. If the wheel frees up then you know it's a hydraulic problem and not mechanical.

John
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  #24  
Old 06-27-2016, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
As for the pull to the right, there seems to be confusion over "pull" vs. "snap" vs. "jerk". All this this happens depending on the pressure applied to the brake.

As I previously described, a gentle "tap" or applicaion of the brake pedal cause immediate "drift/fade/pull" to the right. The harder the pedal is depressed, the harder the "snap" or "jerk".

So if I really hit the brake short of a panic stop, the wheel "snaps/jerks" to the right, and when I release the pedal, the car very quickly "snaps/jerks" to the left in to a straight alignment. this makes driving rather precarious.
A slight amount of pull will happen with drums unless you have both sides adjusted the same. But as you described, plus the heat and dust issues, this is far beyond "normal".
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2016, 06:25 PM
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Default I have to do the experiments John mentions.

Once I get the springs on and adjust the brakes. I'll do as John suggests.
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  #26  
Old 06-27-2016, 06:43 PM
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Without a physical inspection this problem will always pose unanswered questions. All we can do from here is play the guessing game.

For instance, what does the RH drum surface look like, is the spindle bent, etc. I would need to see and feel it for myself. Physical evidence speaks for itself and it has nothing to do with opinions or feelings. 'It is what it is,' but every portion of the mechanics can be measured and tested.

How much travel do shoes really need to retract? 1/4"? 1/8"? 1/16"? 1/64"??? None of the above.

Properly adjusted drum brake shoes lightly touch the drums, to the point where a slight 'scuff' can be heard and felt. Residual valves and self-adjusters are designed to keep the shoes just off the drums as well. So, how much retract spring travel is necessary? About as much as disk pads move (without long or short springs); practically nothing, just relieve pressure.

Tom raises a valid point about both sides having equal brake-HP. John's answer is just as valid and so is his 'hydraulic relief test,' suggested over a week ago but never tried.

This problem begs for an experienced brake mechanic. BTW, good brake companies offer a written warranty that covers their parts and labor because their business reputation depends on keeping their customers happy.

As an aside, wheels do not orient on the hub, the conical lug nuts center the wheel and keep it from moving on the hub. By design, most wheel centers never touch the hub. - Dave
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2016, 08:30 PM
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Default Car in shop

Hi guys:

I want to thank you all for all the thought and suggestions thrown my way on this vexing issue.

I took it into a brake shop this morning and I'm going to let some folks who can see what's going on have a crack at this. It's too hard to do from afar at this point.

I appreciate everyone's help on this.

Hopefully some local help who can eyeball this can help.

All my best to each of you.
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Last edited by GeoffInCarlsbad : 06-27-2016 at 10:40 PM.
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2016, 11:44 PM
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I had some weird issues with drums as well. See attached link above. Maybe it will be helpful. Good luck
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  #29  
Old 06-28-2016, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
Hi guys:

I want to thank you all for all the thought and suggestions thrown my way on this vexing issue.

I took it into a brake shop this morning and I'm going to let some folks who can see what's going on have a crack at this. It's too hard to do from afar at this point.

I appreciate everyone's help on this.

Hopefully some local help who can eyeball this can help.

All my best to each of you.
I would appreciate it if you can let us know what they find.

Thanks,

John
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  #30  
Old 06-28-2016, 11:09 AM
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As an aside, wheels do not orient on the hub, the conical lug nuts center the wheel and keep it from moving on the hub. By design, most wheel centers never touch the hub. - Dave[/quote]

This may be a good subject for a new forum topic?

I am trying not to offend anyone, so I will reframe from commenting, but, explore this a little.

This has proven a constant problem with the poor engineering of after-market wheels which do not take in account the original factory engineering intentions. Scott.
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