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  #1  
Old 01-10-2015, 10:19 AM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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Default Engine removal

Hey guys pulling the engine from my 65 T Bird next week, Ive read the procedure in the shop manual, a few steps have me wondering: removing flywheel to convertor nuts, securing the convertor assembly to housing and removing the lower and upper convertor housing to engine bolts, does the crank need to be rotated to get to the flywheel to convertor nuts
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:26 AM
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Yes, the crank needs to be rotated to remove the converter nuts.

John
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:32 AM
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How do you secure the convertor to housing, do you just fab something to secure it, I heard its a real pain if the convertor moves out
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:49 AM
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It's not a big deal if the converter comes out. On engines that are seized you need to pull the converter out with it. I don't know what your plans are for the transmission but you should remove the converter and drain it anyway and replace the front transmission seal.

John
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:26 AM
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Good idea since its right there and I already have a new filter for the trans, and most parts that I have not replaced seem to be original.
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:35 AM
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Just make sure you put something under the transmission bell housing when you pull the engine. A cinder block with some wood on top will do it.

John
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2015, 12:03 PM
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Before you pull the engine, put the car up on jack stands so the wheels are off the ground. You don't want the body to move when you start lifting.

Before disconnecting the starter motor, use it to rotate the engine as you take the torque converter nuts off. The torque converter should stay in the transmission as you separate the torque converter from the flex plate. It is a good idea to mark the flex plate and torque converter just so you know how it was assembled. Remember to put the torque converter drain plugs in front of the flex plate holes when re-assembling. If you follow your marks you won't go wrong.

The only time I use a brace on the torque converter is when I transport the transmission.

Take 100 pictures as you go and work safely. - Dave
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:34 PM
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Although mine is a '60 I think they will be very similar.

This picture shows the inspection plate removed and one of the converter bolts coming through the flywheel - the nut has already removed. I moved my flywheel by using a socket wrench on the front crankshaft bolt. I disconnected the battery and ignition first as Dave mentions so that there was no chance of it firing as I spun the engine - very slim chance but better safe than sorry.



Here's a picture of the flywheel on the engine - the converter drain hole is at about the 7 o'clock position. Be sure and align the plug on the converter and hole in the flywheel when you re-install the engine. It took about an hour reinstalling my engine to get it aligned to the transmission - had to wiggle and move it but finally popped in place - just FYI - allow some extra time there - hopefully yours will go right back in.



Even though the '65 hood opens from the front rather than from the rear like my '60 I'm guessing you should also plan on removing the hood to be able to lift the engine high enough to clear the front body and fender. Mark the hood and hinges with a pencil so that you can get the alignment close on re-installation.



Are you pulling it for a rebuild?

Good luck - hope it goes well.

Eric
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:31 AM
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Was able to get everything disconnected just have the motor mounts to loosen to pull, have the alternator, powersteering pump, waterpump and radoiator out, plan is to replace the following gaskets, valve covers, heads, intake manifolds, oil pan, rear main seal, freeze plugs etc....install new oil pump, power steering pump and lines waterpump, motor mounts......overall replace everything that I can, thanks for advice on pulling the motor will connect the chains to the heads with longer bolts
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:19 AM
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I strongly urge you to change your timing chain set. Summitracing.com has a very nice one for a decent price:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6608-9
This is a true double roller chain set that will last four times longer than your original chain.

When you install it, advance your cam four degrees by using the '4A' slot. - Dave
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