Steering Noise

[Deanj]

I replaced the PS control valve and steel lines to the power cylinder. After purging the air in system countless times, the power steering pump (or belt?) is groaning and the steering wheel behaves a bit jittery and harder while turning the wheel when cold. After warm up it works fine, but then there's a sawing-whine noise which disappears when turning the wheel off dead center.

The lines are correct in that the most forward line is connected from the control valve to the power cylinder as is the rear line to rear line. I used Type F ATF. The belt was tightened and appears in good condition. While I was turning the wheels lock to lock to purge air, I revved the engine a bit to make turning easier and some light smoke came from the belt area.

I would have thought I fried the belt if it didn't look fine. The noise is definitely coming from the pump area. Could I have damaged the pump? Temperature affects operation.

[jopizz]

Take the belt off and see if the pump pulley turns freely without any catching or binding. It should never smoke unless the belt was too loose.

John

[Deanj]

We had a heck of a time trying to tighten the belt is the first place with the A/C compressor in the way. Is there a better procedure to remove or tighten the PS belt than from the top of the car? There didn't seem a way to move the pump to tighten the belt.

If the pump pulley binds or catches, is it the pulley or the pump?

[jopizz]

Does the P/S pulley line up correctly with the crank pulley. There was a different P/S pulley used on A/C cars. The belt doesn't need to be that tight. You should be able to pull the pump up by hand and tighten it. If the pulley binds the bushing or the gear/rollers may be bad.

John

[Deanj]

You're saying that's the pump. Then any replacement would involve pulling the pulley and transfer to the "new" pump.

it would make sense that's it is the pump since nothing else changed since replacing the control valve. I can't see a belt subject to operating temperature change.

[jopizz]

The power steering pumps are easy to rebuild and the kits are readily available. A rebuilt pump does not come with the pulley.

John

[Deanj]

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!

I've researched many threads on the PS pump and I saw a very specialized pump pulley 2 piece puller. Is there a more generalized puller that will remove the pulley? Or another procedure for the pulley removal and installation?

[jopizz]

I've never had to use a puller and I've done many of them. A little penetrating oil and it should come right off. At worst a couple taps with a rubber mallet will do it. Just watch you don't drop the key that's on the shaft and lose it.

John

[Deanj]

Thanks John. it appears the front mounted pump must come out from under the car since a large A/C compressor blocks access from above.

By the way, is there any chance O'reilly's Type F ATF just isn't compatible enough for the pump?

[jopizz]

By the way, is there any chance O'reilly's Type F ATF just isn't compatible enough for the pump?

I doubt it. I've used many different brands of Type F and never had a problem with any of them.

Did you run the car at all before replacing the control valve. If so did the pump have the same symptoms. Other than leaking from the front seal I've never had an issue with the Eaton P/S pumps.

John

[jopizz]

Just a thought. Do you have the P/S belt on the correct crank pulley. It needs to be on the middle pulley and not the outer one. That is for the compressor belt.

John

[Deanj]

The PS belt is on the correct pulley. The pump didn't have any issues before I installed a rebuilt control valve and started turning the wheels lock to lock to purge the air in the system. I'm positive the air is out now. The noise is generated by the pump. Again, it stops when turning the wheel in a direction, and turning effort is aided by higher RPM. The reservoir doesn't aerate, so it is not leaking air somewhere.

[jopizz]

The control valve connects directly to the steering gear. If the noise changes when the wheel is turned then I would suspect the control valve. There have been others who have had to return their control valves because they weren't rebuilt or adjusted correctly. Those valves are very tricky to rebuild. I suspect yours is faulty.

John

[Deanj]

Oh man, the work. The noise is still generated by the pump? It makes sense since nothing was done other than change the control valve and install new steel lines. At least the pitman arm should come off easier? I assume Larry's understands and accepts returns after a phoned explanation?

[jopizz]

The pump is probably making noise because it's either straining to push the fluid out because the valve spool is not adjusted correctly or it's being starved of fluid because the valve is not returning it fast enough. Usually the valves are a little easier to remove if they haven't been on too long. You shouldn't have a problem returning it. I'm sure they've had them sent back before.

John