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Old 01-03-2017, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
Just curious what it drove like. Mine still has a mid throttle stumbling issue, which I have only tackled the fuel side of so far (seems OK after rebuild, I have a lot of years experience with the Carters/Edelbrocks).

Anyway, just curious what I am shooting for. I assume with an open diff, she should do a one wheel peel virtually forever with the advertised stock torque.

But with over 4000 lbs, a 2.4 first gear and 2.9ish diff, maybe not??
I thought YOU mentioned the rebuild first. At least that's what I read into your post.

You have a very 'tall' rear end gear, one more common to convertibles. OEM engines deliver peak torque after 4,000 rpm. Rear end gears make a dramatic difference in wheel torque. The main reason we use low gear ratios is because lower gears tend not to break. Otherwise, all we need are bigger engines that produce more torque. Not so fast...

So, the quest begins... If your tires spin, use wider tires that are more sticky. That will turn more torque into speed. Unfortunately, that makes each tooth in the ring gear, the weakest link in this drive train. If you can get the pinion gear to engage more ring gear teeth, torque will spread out over a longer surfaces (like a 3.9:1 or 4.3:1 ratio). If the rear end stays together, what about the axles? I've seen them twisted 180-degrees before breaking. The solution is, racing axles. Next, the driveshaft... and it goes on.

To answer your question directly, your rear tires may NOT easily break free from a standing start. The torque converter locks up at low rpm, tires grab too well, the ring and pinion present a 90-degree 'wall' for torque to overcome, etc. The flip side is, you may get to 150-mph if your tires are 'V' rated. - Dave
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