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  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 8787

    #16
    I take a more contemporary approach for the valve seat issue by using aluminum heads with hardened seats and stainless valves (bronze guides and Viton seals, as well) already in them. These are the materials you really want. And did I mention, modern engines have them as standard fare?

    Both engines you cite have hardened exhaust seats installed (because they need them). The FE Forum has extensive discussion on this subject (CLICK HERE) and I have pictures of 390 FE heads that clearly show the exhaust valves are dangerously recessed into the heads. I gladly gave the original iron heads to the sheeny man who was looking for scrap metal on garbage day. - Dave
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • KULTULZ

      #17
      Originally posted by davidmij

      ...when I told him I had c4ae-6090g heads he said that you can't put hardened valve seats in them, there isn't enough material on the head and you'll ruin the head.
      I would get a second opinion regarding the inserts...

      Lead was used primarily as a very cheap way to raise octane, your health and the environment be ****ed. Valve damage was the last gasp of refiners trying to keep it. Probable valve recession is going to happen on a heavily loaded engine (truck). On a passenger car, not likely. That is why FT's employed sodium filled exhaust valves and valve rotators.

      Comment

      • davidmij
        Super-Experienced
        • Jan 17 2011
        • 660

        #18
        Hm, I'll go through the FE link sometime today Simplyconnected, thanks for pointing me to that. Reading all the stuff I can from guys who have real world experience helps me to understand.

        He actually did recommend going with an intake and carb matched aluminum head from edelbrock, but I told him I didn't want to spent that much money on heads.
        So do you guys think he is wrong that there isn't enough material for hardened seats on the c4ae's? I told him that I would be driving this car approximately 300 miles a year, and that it was just a fun, ratrod kind of a project. Maybe I gave him the vibe that I didn't care if it lasted.

        I'll double check with him on the price of doing the existing heads with CJ valves versus buying aluminum Edelbrock FE's.

        He said it's hard to give me a price as there's no telling what they'll run into when they get the motor apart. Could need tons of parts, could be that the existing stuff is OK. The heads were already rebuilt when I put them on a year ago. I've put (maybe) 150 miles on them, but I don't know if they had (viton?) seals, bronze guides or not. He said a rough estimate would be $2700 for a long block build - that was if I supplied the Edelbrock intake. I told him I'd probably go with a short block build because I liked working on it myself and could put the top end together. He said the price wouldn't be much different because bolting the top together isn't all that much work.

        Do you guys know if I will have to go to a different oil pan to fit a 428 crank?

        Thx Dave J

        Comment

        • KULTULZ

          #19
          Originally posted by davidmij

          I'll double check with him on the price of doing the existing heads with CJ valves versus buying aluminum Edelbrock FE's.

          Do you guys know if I will have to go to a different oil pan to fit a 428 crank?

          Thx Dave J
          The addition of larger valves is not going to get you much without porting and a decent set of headers.

          You will use the OEM BIRD pan to clear the engine mounting crossover. If you decide to go with a low sump, you will either have to modify the pan or go with a MILODON custom pan. The aftermarket pan will have oil baffles and also consider using a windage tray.

          The builder will need the CC's of the head combustion chambers to order the correct pistons for your desired final CR and you will have to verify valve to piston clearances if you assemble the short.

          You need a basic education on engine building before you spend your money-

          -HOW TO REBUILD FORD BIG BLOCK FE-

          Comment

          • davidmij
            Super-Experienced
            • Jan 17 2011
            • 660

            #20
            I have the "How to build Max Performance Ford FE Engines" but I haven't gone through it since I swapped out the 352 for the 390. I also have FPA headers. I used the oil pan out of the 67 LTD 390. I had to dent it a little to get it to fit above the steering cylinder thing. Then the fin in the shallow end of the pan that touched the crank so I had to pull it out a tad - lot of fun that was!

            Thx

            Comment

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