Thanks for the kudos and for posting the video, Ray. Many of our members have done this disk brake retrofit to their Squarebird and many more are still kicking the idea around before they take the big plunge.
My purpose is to show how easy brake lines are to make and install. For anyone who hasn't done this type of work, it looks very intimidating. I assure you, it is not. Many of the procedures require more effort to explain than to actually do the work. If I get lots of questions, I will remake the video with the answers included.
I like doing brake work because nothing is heavy and the learning curve is very short. By the time you flare your second or third end, 'learning' is in the past.
I break this job into areas: LH Front wheel area, RH front wheel area, proportioning valve/master cylinder area and rear end area.
The tools required are all 'hand tools'. I typically spread cardboard down, lay out my components and tools then I install brake line at a very leisurely pace. Once I'm situated there is no need to get up until that area is finished. All my cutting, flaring and bending is done right then and there. Eg: If I'm at a front wheel that is 'ready' (old parts are removed, rust is removed and the area is painted), I install the components first, then run brake lines TO THEM. (Electrical and plumbing construction is identical, we mount the devices where they belong first, then run wire or pipe to them.)
Is it important to make your lines identical to the originals? Not at all because we are already changing things around. OEM brakes had no combination valve or calipers. We now use two circuits (front & rear) where the OEM ran all the wheel cylinders from one tee and that was universally accepted. We can generally follow the same routes when practical.
Del is starting his brake retrofit very soon. We have members who can answer any of his questions because they finished and their cars are in operation.
I hope the video puts flaring and bending in perspective. It shows how much brake line uses (or shrinks) for the actual inverted flare, it shows how tight a bend can be (the 'stub length') for a 90 degree ell. These are terms commonly used by electricians who bend conduit because the same rules apply regardless of pipe diameter.
If you want to practice bending, use the old line since it will be discarded. Questions? - Dave