by pass hose

[cubbear]

my 1958 352 has 5/8 outlet on water pump and 1 1/25 fitting on intake that has temp sending unit on it how do you connect the two?

[tbird430]

Heater hose & two clamps. And it's a pain too!!!

[cubbear]

the problem where do you get a hose with 5/8 on 1 end and 1 1/4 on the other would not be problem installing as I have water pump off thanks

[GTE427]

Assuming that we're dealing with a Ford FE engine, sounds like the original hardware or manifold has been changed as the Temp sensor is located in the Intake Manifold, not the bypass hose, on OEM Ford FE's.

You may have to pursue changing the manifold outlet nipple to a 5/8" to match the water pumps nipple. Or if another fitting was added to accept the temp sensor, that may have to be removed and the sensor moved back to the original location.

Knowing how little space there is between the two nipples, I can't imagine what you have. If it's an aftermarket intake, maybe different nipple sizes are available from suppliers such as Summit Racing.

How were the two connected beforehand?

[jopizz]

The water pump I have came with a piece of rubber on the nipple to use as a spacer. I was able to get my hose over that but it wasn't easy. Seems to be ok though. Try different pieces of hose to see if you can find one to fill the gap. I'm pretty sure the outlet on my '59 352 intake isn't larger than 3/4 though. My temp sensor is in the outlet also. I think they changed it in '60.

[KULTULZ]

If anyone here has a 49/59 FORD MPC, the Basic PN on a WP bypass hose is 8597. There may be a PN for this unique installation or a service recommendation.

[cubbear]

by pass hose

thanks fellows, the setup I have is the same as it shows in thunderbird headquarters cat on page 32 there is a fitting screwed into the intake with the temp sending unit in it it was about a yr ago i took apart and do not remember what was there

[cubbear]

by pass hose

Thanks Kultulz that is what i have now i need to connect to water pump which is 5/8 or relocate sending unit

[partsetal]

The 58 & most of the 59's used the temp sender in the bypass port. There is a Part # for the spacer, but if your nipple on the pump will take a 3/4" hose, install a 5/8 over the sender pipe and a 3/4 over the 5/8 and connect it to the 3/4 nipple on the pump. Not all pumps use the 3/4 nipple, but if it does, this method will work.
Carl

[GTE427]

Thanks guys for adding to and correcting my previous post, wasn't aware that the sending unit location differed on the early 352 engines. Always welcome new information about these old cars.

[partsetal]

This is a correction to my previous post. Coincidentally I had to install a water pump today. The temp sender end takes a 7/8" heater hose and the water pump takes a 5/8". Both are short pieces and require accurate measurements before cutting. I slipped the 5/8 piece over the water pump and then with the 7/8 piece in place on the sender I slipped the 5/8 piece into the 7/8. I've provided a photo that may explain it better.
If anyone needs a piece of 7/8" hose for this task, let me know and I'll send you one.

[JohnG]

Carl, great photo!!!

I did the same thing and it worked out fine - been in place for 4+ years now. But, from an engineering point of view, a good example of one hand not knowing what the other was doing!

There are, floating around on Ebay, examples of the original Ford part to connect the two components (water pump, manifold). I bought one once just to see what it looked like, for a couple bucks.

I have a 1958 motor, by the way.

John

[KULTULZ]

There are, floating around on Ebay, examples of the original Ford part to connect the two components (water pump, manifold). I bought one once just to see what it looked like, for a couple bucks.

John

Any chance of a photo and PN John?

[JohnG]

I will see if I can find it. The PN shows up on the exploded parts diagrams; just the part was not available when I encountered it. I think there are some posts somewhere that I exchanged with Alexander back then, as well. The parts diagrams give you no detail on the part so as to explain why it works. Finally I came to decide "one inside another, some RTV and good clamps! It only has to withstand 15 psi or so"

[JohnG]

OK - I dug it up.

PN: B8AZ-8597-A (I do not have the box; I jotted that # down from the EBay auction)

It is a simple piece of 7/8" inside diameter hose. About 3/16" thick. 1 1/4" long.

No taper or anything.

I believe the way it seals is by being pressed forward/backward instead of the usual radial sealing by the hose clamps. (at least at the smaller 5/8" end). Thus the 1 1/4" long measure may be the most critical as well as calling for a very straight cut, for anyone duplicating it.

I seem to recall buying it just to see how they tapered it, and . . . they didn't !

I can post a photo later for anyone interested; there just isn't much to see.

A brief search of the Internet by the part # shows Dennis Carpenter will sell you one for $10.00.

John