Brake Booster & OEM Firewall Bracket retrofit.

[simplyconnected]

Many of our members have expressed interest in upgrading their OEM Squarebird to Power Disk Brakes, which many of our members successfully enjoy right now.

I specifically want to address those who have an original booster under the hood. A/C or not, makes no difference for this retrofit.

This is about the BOOSTER and MASTER CYLINDER only! Work at the wheels will be a different site for discussion. So is, buying the complete unit for an arm and a leg because fabrication is intimidating. In my opinion, if you are lucky to have a booster under the hood, THIS is the best route to Power Disk Brakes.

Randy Harsha took loads of pictures while doing his Squarebird's brakes. His pictures will HELP anyone who wants to save a few bucks and accomplish a professional job.

CLICK HERE for this new site I just compiled for the benefit of our members, thanks to Randy.

Any questions are encouraged, so don't be afraid to ask.
Ray, look this site over, let me know if it needs editing then enter it into the TRL. - Dave

[DKheld]

GREAT write-up Dave and SUPER work on the pictures Randy.

I'm sure that will help lots of folks wanting to go disc-o.

My guess is that you recommend checking and re-using the OEM reserve vac tank?

Eric

[YellowRose]

Brake Booster & OEM Firewall Bracket retrofit.

I echo what Eric said, Dave! Fantastic and it looks good to me. I have put it into the TRL in the Disc Brake section. As for posting this in Anything goes, I was thinking that it should be moved to the Squarebirds sub-Forum, but after thinking about it, someone with a BulletBird or Flairbird or other years without Power Disc Brakes could possibly use this write up also. So I think we should leave it here.

[OX1]

Questions......

1. What if anything do you do to the funky linkage brake
pedal arrangement that hooked up to the 59 internal booster?
It appears that booster has to come out to get to the
linkage that connects brake pedal to engine side of firewall?
(correct?)

2. Do all 60 model years also have that funky brake
pedal even though they did not have internal booster?
(my 60 parts car had the weird multi-linkage brake pedal).

3. Pedal ratio overall seems to be about 2.3 or 2.5:1.
Don't power brakes usually use between 3 and 4:1?

4. Is that GM master a disk/disk?

[RustyNCa]

Questions......

1. What if anything do you do to the funky linkage brake
pedal arrangement that hooked up to the 59 internal booster?
It appears that booster has to come out to get to the
linkage that connects brake pedal to engine side of firewall?
(correct?)

2. Do all 60 model years also have that funky brake
pedal even though they did not have internal booster?
(my 60 parts car had the weird multi-linkage brake pedal).

3. Pedal ratio overall seems to be about 2.3 or 2.5:1.
Don't power brakes usually use between 3 and 4:1?

4. Is that GM master a disk/disk?

Answers from my experience.

1. On our 58, I kept the funky linkage arrangement and adapted to it. It's been so long ago now, that I couldn't say how I did it.

4. Yes, that is a GM master and booster, requires you also add an adjustable proportioning valve. That allows you to dial in the correct about of brake bias. Also if you are going to run tall Valve covers, it does clear, but it's very tight. I ended up needing a new master so went with one that didn't have ports on both sides which gained me a few more mm of space.

[RustyNCa]

We didn't have any booster to start on our 58, so we came up with a mount on our own. It seems to work fine for us.

[simplyconnected]

..My guess is that you recommend checking and re-using the OEM reserve vac tank?..

The new booster needs no additional vacuum reserve other than the one in the new booster. You may use or remove your auxiliary vacuum tank based on the OTHER vacuum requirements on your car, like vacuum wipers and vacuum squirts. If your SB wears electric wipers there is no reason for a separate vacuum tank.

Questions......

1. What if anything do you do to the funky linkage brake
pedal arrangement that hooked up to the 59 internal booster?
It appears that booster has to come out to get to the
linkage that connects brake pedal to engine side of firewall?
(correct?)

2. Do all 60 model years also have that funky brake
pedal even though they did not have internal booster?
(my 60 parts car had the weird multi-linkage brake pedal).

3. Pedal ratio overall seems to be about 2.3 or 2.5:1.
Don't power brakes usually use between 3 and 4:1?

4. Is that GM master a disk/disk?

1. That was a treadle-vac system that would NOT have featured a firewall booster, so different discussion.
2. It depends on whether your car came with power brakes.
3. Since we are using OEM parts, ratios are already factory-set. They can be changed but that's another discussion.
4. Randy bought MBM parts. He used a 1"-bore Corvette-style master cylinder but he could have chosen a Ford-style, they both fit. The M/C has no internal pressure valves so it can be used on any brake arrangement.

We didn't have any booster to start on our 58, so we came up with a mount on our own. It seems to work fine for us...

There are many ways to skin this cat. You engineered one way that will work for you but it has the same problems all SBs encounter; the firewall hole is too low for a booster to clear the steering linkage.
If I needed a firewall bracket I would make one from Howard Prout's designs. They directly bolt on with no extension channels. But, that's another discussion.







Ford's OEM firewall bracket setup used the existing firewall holes with no alterations. Altering the firewall is a topic for another discussion.

[Deanj]

Can I just say that for my 1960 factory AC car I bought a power booster/dual master from ABS power brake, Inc. It was part 9787.

Unbolt and bolt in. Maybe adjust peddle under the dash a bit. You'll need some brake lines, a junction block to be used at the new master cylinder to route the new front line to the original junction block to feed the front brake lines. Plug up its rear outlet since you'll route the rear reservoir line at brake line junction block direct to rear brakes. You need a standard threaded connector for the brake light switch connection on the upper junction block. I didn't use a proportioning valve and all is well since I kept the drums. If your careful, no need to bleed front brakes, and you can bleed the rears near the bottom junction block before connecting to the rear lines. The vacuum source is the old wiper vacuum source on the passenger side of the car. Use a small clamp on that connection to prevent booster leakage. I had help since bending brake lines and crawling under the dash isn't for 6 time back surgery candidates.

Dean