Carb overflowing

[jopizz]

It's pretty simple. The hardest part is replacing the rear pump diaphragm. You have to knock out the pin to change it. The rest takes less than an hour.

[davidvend]

I just check A Zone's parts its only $13.99 it doesn't have the power valve in the kit I'm wondering if it is avalible as extra. Thats about the differnce in the price with the power valve not their kit.

[jopizz]

Where are you seeing that price and the fact that the power valve isn't in the kit. All the 4100 rebuild kits have the power valve. I just looked at the Autozone web site and it shows the full kit for $16.99. Here's the link to it. It says power valve not included but I believe that's an error. I bought one less than 6 months ago and it was included. The picture also shows it. You can always order it if it's not stocked at your local store and if the valve isn't in there don't take it. I also got the same kit from Advance Auto Parts and it had the power valve in it.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Gp-Sorensen-Carburetor-Kit/1959-Ford-Thunderbird/_/N-j2jw9Z8vd1z?counter=0&itemIdentifier=3573_0_3660_

[davidvend]

Yes it is only $13.99 here on the west coast I'm talking to them right now and they say in the picture it is in the kit but not listed in the discription. It is called an economizer valve not the normal wording of power valve. Jopizz you have been a great help. Autozone says they will have it around 2pm today. I will make sure its in the kit before I purchase it.

[jopizz]

When you rebuild your carb you will have parts left over. Don't sweat it. The kit fits many models and some parts are for later years. Just don't forget to install the two ball bearings. Also before you put the top on make sure you check the float heights. The kit has the float settings and a gauge to check it. You can send me a PM if you get stuck.

[davidvend]

I took the carb apart and I cannot get the 4 brass jets out. it looks like someone tried before and 2 are stripped on the slots so a screwdriver spins off. Can you drill these out and use an easyout to remove them or if I drill them out will I ruin the ports below them? Yes pine-sol works great a little scrubbing and its clean I blew out all the openings everything is clean. Reasemble tonight I couldn't find a model # on the carb but did find a #112 on the float bowl - David

[jopizz]

There's no reason to remove the jets. Most times they just round off like what happened to you. I usually just shoot some carb cleaner with a nozzle in them.

[davidvend]

Thank You I was worried that I would have to remove them. Everything is ready to put back together all is clean and all holes are clear. The carb was pretty clean but the rear diaphram and the power valve were all falling apart broken rubber on both. 40' Ford Day or all Ford Day is on Sunday and a parade on Saturday busy weekend. - David

[Jimz Bird]

I couldn't find a model # on the carb but did find a #112 on the float bowl - David

Just a note on the #112.

"Autolite 4100

A Ford design that looks similar to a Holley, this carb is a very underrated choice. Coming in sizes useful for a Y, the 4100 uses Holley jets and power valves. The annular discharge booster venturis are very efficient. A great choice for an all-Ford ride, the 4100 is simple and reliable. 3 sizes were made: a 480 cfm unit uses 1.08”venturis, a 600 cfm unit uses 1.12” venturies, and a rare, 1958-only version came with 1.19” venturis for 650 to 670 cfm. Check the carb base for venturi size numbers."

From here:

http://m571.com/yblock/carb.htm

The 1.19 is a very "valuable" carb. If you see one in a junkyard - snag it.

[davidvend]

I went to 2 events this weekend and I'm having some issues with the rear butterflies staying a bit open causing a fast idle. Saturday after the parade I removed the carb and changed the carb mounting gasket reinstalled the carb and checked the movement of the rear butterflies and they closed with no problem. Sunday went to a car show everything was fine but on the way home I wanted to see the car perform so I pressed the gas petal hard and the rear butterflies stuck open again. I had a hard time stopping with the traffic and had to put it in neutral to stop I got off the fwy shut off the car checked the rear butterflies and they were closed and the car ran fine all the way home. Why would driving the car keep those open? am I missing a spring? the only thing they are hooked up to is the rear pump.

[Astrowing]

That sounds dangerous and you need to solve it before driving in traffic. My suggestion is to check the main throttle linkage and make sure that linkage is always returning back to idle with the engine off. There is a spring that attaches to the bracket on the back of the carb that should ensure it always comes back. There have been some instances of the accelerator assembly at the back of the engine being so worn that it makes the throttle pretty sloppy. Additionally there are several adjustments for pedal height and the length of the carb accelerator rod, and dashpot that need to be adjusted. All these procedures are in the service manual in the auto transmission section, assuming you have a Cruise-o-matic.

[davidvend]

The linkage returns back with the engine off. I think the trouble is that the vacume is keeping the rear butterflies open on the rear linkage. The rear acelelerator pump spring inside shows on the instructions that it is in the rear position pushing forward and the one on my carb is pushing backwards away from the carb is it possiable that it is in backwards, it is the way I took it off or could it be the diaphram is to strong and the spring needs more tension to push it closed.

[davidvend]

Sorry wrong information the spring is pushing the diaphram forward to close it but it doesn't seem to close. It is in the right direction I think it is the vacume thats keeping it open? should I stretch the spring so it is stronger to close the diaphram from the vacume

[jopizz]

I don't think bending the spring will do much as they are pretty flimsy. You can try bending the rod so there's more tension and the butterflies don't open as far.

[davidvend]

Bending the linkage would make it longer and maybe that would help. Do you think it would be the carb gasket the one I took off had 4 holes in the down draft? and the carb gasket I put on from the kit has a large square opening and not sealing the center of the carb for this 4100 that maybe sealed as not to suck the diaphram to open the rear butterflies?