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  • skcow
    Newbie
    • Oct 9 2011
    • 6

    Steering upgrade???

    I'm seriously considering the install of a rack and pinion system in the front of my 59'. I've been looking at the Flaming River rear steer units/ w a Ididit column. the big challenge is building a cradle to set behind the motor cross member. Just curious if anyone out there has attempted this or might have any helpful input thanks.
  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 8787

    #2
    I did one in my Galaxie, but it came with brackets that bolt into existing holes. When you take your old steering out, same story... the rack gear should bolt straight into the existing holes with the brackets they provide in the kit.

    The brackets on the driver's LH side:
    The bracket for your 'U-joint' bolts into the bolt hole on top of your subframe, intended for the clutch crank on manual steering T-birds. The LH cradle bracket bolts through your frame using your old steering box holes.

    On the passenger's side, the RH side of the cradle brackets use the old idler arm holes through the frame.

    Hope this helps. Now that I have PS, this big boat needs only one finger to park at all the cruise restaurants. It's really amazing. - Dave

    Edit: Oh, and all that drag link, idler arm linkage that's always loose is GONE. This car steers just like a modern car. Steering is solid w/no wandering or 'hunting back and forth' with the wheel.
    Last edited by simplyconnected; February 2, 2012, 10:14 AM.
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • skcow
      Newbie
      • Oct 9 2011
      • 6

      #3
      Thanks for the input, I think I'm going to try this project while I'm doing the rest of the front end....I'm pulling the control arms now for new springs, bushings, ball joints.

      Comment

      • simplyconnected
        Administrator
        • May 26 2009
        • 8787

        #4
        Consider new 1-1/8" sway bars and bumpers, too.
        Member, Sons of the American Revolution

        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

        Comment

        • keith
          Super-Experienced
          • Feb 13 2010
          • 564

          #5
          Take plenty of pictures and post them for the rest of us.
          Keith
          Sedalia, Mo.
          sigpic
          CLICK HERE for Keith's web site

          Comment

          • Restifier52
            Experienced
            • Jul 26 2011
            • 371

            #6
            image for Dave

            This is an illustration from the instructions that came with my rear sway bar. It shows a bar that runs in front of the axle. The bar I received runs around the back. What does this mean?
            Attached Files
            1960 HT
            Thunderbird Registry #35780

            Comment

            • simplyconnected
              Administrator
              • May 26 2009
              • 8787

              #7
              Rick, functionally, the sway bar could be on top or bottom of your axle with the arms facing forward OR backward. As long as the bar does not interfere with the motion of the axle.

              The rear bars mount opposite the front bars: Front bars end at the wheels and the middle is mounted to the car's frame. Rear bars end at the frame and the middle mounts to the axle.

              No brackets need to be welded to your axle housing, but you may want to weld brackets onto your frame.

              So you understand the function, sway bars do nothing but go along for the ride when both wheels move up and down together, like a parallelogram.

              When only one wheel travels up, the bar puts a downward pressure on that wheel and an upward motion on the other wheel. All mounting clamps are essential for the bar to work.

              Think of yourself as the axle. The bar is mounted to the frame and you grab the center. Try to raise just one side. Equal force wants to raise the other side until you tie it down. Then, the bar becomes much harder to move one side. It counteracts your motion, and it doesn't matter if the ends are mounted in the front or back of the axle.

              Your axle 'swings' in an arc as it goes up and down. The pivot points are the front bolts. If you mount your sway bar solid to the axle, the frame ends must be allowed to move front-to-back. Hope this helps. - Dave
              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

              Comment

              • Dakota Boy
                Super-Experienced
                • Jun 30 2009
                • 1561

                #8
                wurthitdesigns.com "rack-and-pinion conversions for 57-59 Fords"


                http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13286200801091
                http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

                Comment

                • dgs
                  Super-Experienced
                  • Feb 13 2003
                  • 962

                  #9
                  Originally posted by keith
                  Take plenty of pictures and post them for the rest of us.
                  Absolutely, love to see what's involved in this conversion. For the suspension rebuild, I've got a gallery from when I did mine here that might help you.
                  DGS (aka salguod)
                  1960 Convertible - Raven Black, Red leather
                  www.salguod.net

                  Comment

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