Kenn, they are tapered for the acorn nuts.
John, I was thinking you were on the right track, but I compared the way the wheel sits with the old Kelsey-Hayes repops I used to have and they are almost identical the way they sit on. I'm thinking that Dave and Tom are on the right track with thinner metal and chroming.
I googled for air-ride related issues and have not seen anything during a quick search on the internet. I have seen many-a-car with air-ride and have never heard of anyone else breaking a wheel like this. I even checked all of my components to ensure everything was still tight, and it is.
I sent an email over to the guys at Coker with all the info I could think of that might be pertinent
Phillip/Steve,
I have become greatly concerned for my wife and I's safety over these wheels cracking. I have created a folder in my Google drive with pictures rather than filling your inbox. I will try to give you as much info as possible here as well. I really like the wheels and get compliments on them, so I would like to get this figured out with you ASAP. I spent 2 weeks deciding on wheels when I originally purchased these several years ago, it drove my wife crazy, but the wheels make the car. It is finally to the point of driving, and I am now unable due to these failures. It is more than a little aggravating.
Pictures
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...m8?usp=sharing
1959 Thunderbird
The cracks ALWAYS are on the front wheels
I have Air-Ride suspension front and back
The air ride lifts the front-end approximately 4 inches from flat-out to ride height
The rear suspension is a 4-link with the stock rear end and drums
The front spindles and brakes are from a 1975-80 Ford Grenada
Alignment specs are set to a stock 1959 Thunderbird when the air-ride is at ride-height
When installing the wheels:
- I place the wheels onto the spindle
- Start each lug nut by hand
- I am using standard Acorn nuts that you see in the pictures; 1/2 x 20 size
- Tighten each lug-nut in a cross-star pattern until seated
- Let the car down on the jack until the wheel has enough weight on it not to move while tightening
- Tighten the lug-nuts to 100ft-lbs (I rechecked the torque on the other front wheel today)
- Let the car all the way down off the jack
- Matt Lewis
John, I was thinking you were on the right track, but I compared the way the wheel sits with the old Kelsey-Hayes repops I used to have and they are almost identical the way they sit on. I'm thinking that Dave and Tom are on the right track with thinner metal and chroming.
I googled for air-ride related issues and have not seen anything during a quick search on the internet. I have seen many-a-car with air-ride and have never heard of anyone else breaking a wheel like this. I even checked all of my components to ensure everything was still tight, and it is.
I sent an email over to the guys at Coker with all the info I could think of that might be pertinent
Phillip/Steve,
I have become greatly concerned for my wife and I's safety over these wheels cracking. I have created a folder in my Google drive with pictures rather than filling your inbox. I will try to give you as much info as possible here as well. I really like the wheels and get compliments on them, so I would like to get this figured out with you ASAP. I spent 2 weeks deciding on wheels when I originally purchased these several years ago, it drove my wife crazy, but the wheels make the car. It is finally to the point of driving, and I am now unable due to these failures. It is more than a little aggravating.
Pictures
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...m8?usp=sharing
1959 Thunderbird
The cracks ALWAYS are on the front wheels
I have Air-Ride suspension front and back
The air ride lifts the front-end approximately 4 inches from flat-out to ride height
The rear suspension is a 4-link with the stock rear end and drums
The front spindles and brakes are from a 1975-80 Ford Grenada
Alignment specs are set to a stock 1959 Thunderbird when the air-ride is at ride-height
When installing the wheels:
- I place the wheels onto the spindle
- Start each lug nut by hand
- I am using standard Acorn nuts that you see in the pictures; 1/2 x 20 size
- Tighten each lug-nut in a cross-star pattern until seated
- Let the car down on the jack until the wheel has enough weight on it not to move while tightening
- Tighten the lug-nuts to 100ft-lbs (I rechecked the torque on the other front wheel today)
- Let the car all the way down off the jack
- Matt Lewis
Comment