332 water pump pulley!

[DKheld]

The 1G is what I settled on (old style case - new internal fan style was bigger). Even so when you install the dual belt pulley on the 1G there is less than 1/4 inch clearance between the back of the Alternator and front edge of the block. Plus the output on the back of the Alternator is high up and comes close to the block when you try to adjust the belt tension. A shorter belt puts the case too close to the block for the original adjuster bracket to work and the Alternator fan scrapes the bracket. Would work with a shorter belt and an angled bracket. Problem with that is the original bracket is also angled at the top to miss the the timing pointer. Ideally it needs an adjuster bracket that is sort of S shaped. You can find just about any bracket these days as long as you know what it fits but when you say you want an S shaped bracket it gets interesting - mostly the next question is "what's it fit". Hot Rod shops are a little more understanding.

I was/am going for OEM look for sure and as many OEM parts as possible. Then the rear main seal went bad on the engine so I'll be changing it all soon. Found a rebuilt 352 for less than half of what I could rebuild mine for so went with it. The new engine will have chrome valve covers and no road draft tube but otherwise a pretty stock look. All the accessories will be transferred.

Seriously considering the PowerGEN Alternator in the Generator case. No bracket changes - bolt it on to the original brackets and done. A bit expensive but may be worth it in the end.

That link was helpful - no problem - just didn't have exactly what I wanted.

Eric

[KULTULZ]

There is a special rear mounting bracket made for an ALT upgrade on an older FE block that doesn't have the ALT mounting bolt hole. Have you seen one or have you found it already?

Changeover ALT brackets (OEM take-offs) are available from CRITES also if you have trouble finding a matched set.

There are also kits available to up the AMPS on a 1G.

I can E-MAIL you any info and then if you are a member, post it for others.

[simplyconnected]

A PowerGen OR a 1G will not support an electric fan. After you get all the fabrication done, the PowerGen is a GM 1-wire that is weak on output for a whole lot of money.

These alternators come in different capacities that are in stone. Rebuild sites are saying they do 'batch rebuilding' which means you may purchase a high output alt, only to find that it doesn't perform as stated. Reason being is because when they get all the old ones in, someone tears them all down. When they rebuild, they install all the same parts regardless of what is written on the case.

The only practical solution is to get an electric fan and alt SET off of a bone yard car. That way you KNOW they match. Then fabricate your brackets. It's not that difficult. If you can't weld, send me a drawing and I'll do it for you. I am using a 1990 power steering pump and a 200? Ford alt that Ray got down in Texas, on our 292 Y-block. I'm also using the Ford electric fan he sent. Hold the parts in place and take measurements to the surrounding water pump and block bolts. Hot Rodders simply use their imagination and their skills to come up with amazingly simple ideas. Sometimes a little trial and error works as well. - Dave

[KULTULZ]

Dave,

A SERIES 1G ALT can very easily be upgraded with specialized rebuilding. I do not buy from AUTOZONE (except for a quick and cheap service repair- customer request).

http://alternatorparts.com/ford_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm

I agree on the PowerGen and one wires, but I do not wish to get into a shouting match with someone. Let the owner decide.

Much less, the 1G makes the retro-fit look OEM and period correct (to me anyways).

[DKheld]

Yeah - I agree - 90 amps for $400 is definitely on the steep side but that is an easy way to add 60 amps - not cheap - but easy. PowerGEN even has one that has a generator warning lamp terminal now.

Seems there should be an electric fan that would operate well under the 90 amp range. My '79 MG had dual electric fans and a whimpy 43 amp Lucas alternator - but not going with an electric fan - trying to stay closer to original look so not really an issue for my build.

It's a combination of mounting bracket, adjuster bracket and lack of space. Looks like there is a lot of room down low but there is just not. One problem you can't avoid is that the alternator all has to be in a certain small area for the dual v belts to align properly on the pulley (front to back) miss the block, A-Arm and battery holder but still have some adjustment room (side to side).

It would probably be easier to use something like a 360/390 truck bracket. Move it all up high as in the other pic but that doesn't stay with the original look and as Gary mentions not all the holes are present on the older 352 block to add the different brackets.

This winter I was hoping to find an easy bolt on bracket and alternator combo that I could post for the group. I had time to look but now that spring is here I'm ready to get mine back on the road so I'll shelf the idea for later. (was intended for those who can't weld but want the upgrade).

Welding? Oh yeah.
From this


To this

This is the 3rd MGA I've done - - but thanks for the offer anyway.

Eric

[KULTULZ]

Yeah - I agree - 90 amps for $400 is definitely on the steep side but that is an easy way to add 60 amps - not cheap - but easy. PowerGEN even has one that has a generator warning lamp terminal now.

Seems there should be an electric fan that would operate well under the 90 amp range. My '79 MG had dual electric fans and a whimpy 43 amp Lucas alternator - but not going with an electric fan - trying to stay closer to original look so not really an issue for my build.

If one went with an electric fan (I am a big fan of this - but not correct for a restoration or period correct appearance) one would have to ascertain the AMP draw and allow for that (plus AMP draw for the rest of the electrical system).

It's a combination of mounting bracket, adjuster bracket and lack of space. Looks like there is a lot of room down low but there is just not. One problem you can't avoid is that the alternator all has to be in a certain small area for the dual v belts to align properly on the pulley (front to back) miss the block, A-Arm and battery holder but still have some adjustment room (side to side).

It would probably be easier to use something like a 360/390 truck bracket. Move it all up high as in the other pic but that doesn't stay with the original look and as Gary mentions not all the holes are present on the older 352 block to add the different brackets.

This winter I was hoping to find an easy bolt on bracket and alternator combo that I could post for the group. I had time to look but now that spring is here I'm ready to get mine back on the road so I'll shelf the idea for later. (was intended for those who can't weld but want the upgrade).

Eric

Eric,

I can shoot you info on the early low mount and what you will need if desired.

There are also several versions of the 1G ALT. What is yours off of (any Stamping I.D. Nos.)?

[DKheld]

If one went with an electric fan (I am a big fan of this - but not correct for a restoration or period correct appearance) one would have to ascertain the AMP draw and allow for that (plus AMP draw for the rest of the electrical system).

You know that's a good question. I never have checked it so I did. Ignition on, headlights on bright, brake lights on, interior light on, A/C blower fan on high, radio on. About the only thing electrical not on were the horns and lighter.

Dropshots has ben pretty lousy lately so if the pic doesn't show up it's 24.7 amps total draw.


and this is the bracket and clearance



Eric

[jopizz]

Eric,

It looks like you are using the same generic adapter bracket for your alternator as I am. Mine seems to have a lot of flex to it and I have trouble keeping the belt tight. I'm using the long bracket from the water pump with an extension piece to the bottom hole on the alternator. How do you have yours mounted and do you have any trouble with it staying tight.

John

[DKheld]

John,
It's an Arlington Products LLC bracket. Glad you mentioned the flex - had planned on getting it set then welding it together to eliminate the bolts just to make it look better. It came with 3/8 bolts to mount to the 7/16 holes of the original generator bracket. That's the first thing I modified - drilled the brackets out to 7/16 - seemed to make it a bit more stable.

I had also planned to install a small piece on the end of my adjuster bracket coming from the water pump mount so that it would clear the fan on the alternator better.

Couldn't tell you about the belts staying tight - it was all just a project so haven't run it with the bracket yet. Gary is sending me some info that may be a better solution then the universal bracket and I may be re-thinking all of it when I get back to the Alternator conversion this winter.

As a temporary solution I will be installing a new 40 amp generator to get me through the summer. No mods except a spacer and longer bolt on the back bracket because the 40 amp generator is a bit longer.

Eric

[simplyconnected]

You know that's a good question. I never have checked it so I did. Ignition on, headlights on bright, brake lights on, interior light on, A/C blower fan on high, radio on. About the only thing electrical not on were the horns and lighter...

Now, do all that for hours on end in a cruise at idle speed. That's what the Woodward Dream Cruise is. 1.5M people come from all over (including many beautiful cars and their owners from Canada). Motels require renting for the whole week, not just Saturday (the official cruise day) and Sunday. Woodward Avenue is four lanes on each side with a grassy boulevard in the middle (where all the cops hang out). People bring their own canopy and chairs, and set them up days in advance, lining the street on both sides for ten miles. Yes, it's crazy but free and a lot of fun. The pizza places will deliver to your car out in the middle of the road.

For folks coming in from Florida and California, they find a motel stay for a week is right up their alley.

CLICK HERE to check out the Woodward Dream Cruise. It happens every year in the 3rd week(end) in Aug. Check out the gallery but this is mostly what you see:


Here are some pics I took last year CLICK HERE

[jopizz]

That's a good point about the larger bolts. I'll have to try it. Seems like the weak point is the long bolt that goes through the top of the alternator. I'll have to figure out some sort of reinforcement for that. I would like to go with the C.R.A.P. bracket but it only works with a Ford alternator and I prefer the GM three wire one I have.

John

[Joe Johnston]

This alternator was installed on a pre 63 engine without the alt mounting bolt hole. The flat stock connects to a water pump bolt which is in just view. Not pretty but it was solid and something similar to brace to an existing bolt may help add rigidity.

[DKheld]

Yeah Dave - I see it. The 30A generator would need to operate at 80% capacity at idle to keep up with the demand - that's probably on the edge.

Add electronic ignition etc and your over the top which would drain the battery the whole time you were at idle.

The 40A will be a little better operating at about 60% (assuming the 24A system draw) - that may be something it could handle.

Eric

[KULTULZ]

[KULTULZ]

A SERIES 1G ALT can very easily be upgraded with specialized rebuilding.

http://alternatorparts.com/ford_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm

The 1G makes the retro-fit look OEM and period correct (to me anyways).

More specifically-

Part # HO-7003

$59.95 FORD ALTERNATOR 80 AMP UPGRADE KIT
Fits the standard 1G small case External Regulator alt. from 35 to 65 amps., single or double pulleys, used on Ford cars, light trucks, marine, industrial and other applications from 1965-1985.
Click Here for Kit Contents

Part # HO-7013

$69.95 FORD ALTERNATOR 105-AMP UPGRADE KIT
Fits the standard 1G small case External Regulator alt. from 35 to 65 amps., single or double pulleys, used on Ford cars, light trucks, marine, industrial and other applications from 1965-1985.
Click Here for Kit Contents

ADDED INFO-

Whenever an ALT amperage upgrade is performed, proper size wiring must be used to prevent circuit overheating/fire.