RE: York A/C Compressor repair manual?
Last night I tore into the better looking of the 2 compressors. When I pulled the head the suction plates were solid rust. I pulled the bottom crank cover and the crank and rod cap bolts were also rusted. It was the 58 L.
Next I turned to the 59 J cruddy compressor. Crusty on the outside, caked with grease, oil and dirt, it had the suction and discharge shutoff valves missing and the holes in the head were covered with tape. This goes to prove looks can be deceiving and don't judge a book by it's cover. This compressor was like new inside. The pistons were set but a can of WD-40 and hardwood hammer handle soon got the pistons to move. I cleaned the cylinder walls with 2000 grit wet or dry in a honing action and the compressor spins free now.
It's ready for oil now and I can turn to the clutch and brushes now and make it all look like new. I still am clueless on torque specifications for the head and crank cover. I guess as long as they are tight and even torque it should be fine since I didn't mess with the rod bolts.
I plan to use a refrigerant I bought on eBay. It's compatible with both R134A and R12 and works great because I filled my son's system on his van and it blows cold. I guess the proof is in the pudding.
The oil I removed looked brown and smelled burned but was probably just old. I'll stay away from the mineral oil and try the other since the refrigerant cans say R134A on them.
I have a rebuilt drier and NOS hoses. I opted to use the original evaporator and R12 expansion valve. I still have to clean up, paint and pressure test the condensor and comb a few fins straight. All the old oil is out of the system.
Thanks again for the oil capacity and type.