Auto TRans backflow issue

[sidewalkman]

Hi Everyone
I'm new to T-Birds although a fan forever, finally got a 60. I'm pretty good with everything on a car except automatic transmissions so I'm reaching out to you gurus for help. Overnight my torque converter is draining fluid back into the trans. I have to put is in gear let it warm up and give it some revs before the TC refills and I can drive. I've got it in the shop now, anyone else had this and is there a fix? I know someplace in the valve body there is a check valve but...?
Also I was wondering what the transmission is? I thought there was a linkage issue since I can't gear down into D1 only low, and the car seems to start in D1 not low unless I give it gas. Now I read that's normal.
Lastly, the kick down (passing gear?) doesn't seem to operate correctly. Ideas??

[jopizz]

The drain back issue seems to be a common problem not just with Ford transmissions but other makes as well. There is a check valve in the pressure regulator but I've taken them apart and I've never found a problem with them. However I've never had it where it wouldn't go into gear as you describe. Normally it should fill up whether it's in gear or not.

When you put the transmission in D1 it starts in first gear. That is normal for the Cruise-o-matic transmission. If you put it in D2 it will start in second gear. Do you know if you have the original transmission.

Without seeing a picture of the linkage and carburetor you have I won't speculate on the passing gear issue.

John

[sidewalkman]

Thanks John, I'll take some pics. It's not the original transmission but I'm told it's the same transmission, the original had a crack in a casting.

[YellowRose]

Auto Trans backflow issue

Scott, if you can, get some pix of the tranny while it is out of the car. On the side there should be a metal tag attached to it, and that tag, if it is still there, should give you the code for what tranny that is. If there is no tag, take pix of what codes are showing on the tranny case. That will help us tell you what tranny you have...

[Tbird1044]

Scott:
There is also some good info in the TRL including how to identify a trans. Here is the link: http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_g...81960%29_1.jpg

Nyles

[sidewalkman]

So turns out the seals are toast, I didn't have anything better to do this winter so I'll be rebuilding a transmission

[jopizz]

If you are going to do it yourself make sure you check out Dave Dare's rebuild.

http://home.comcast.net/~simplyconnected/projects/Cruise-O-Matic/default.htm

John

[simplyconnected]

If you are going to do it yourself make sure you check out Dave Dare's rebuild.

http://home.comcast.net/~simplyconnected/projects/Cruise-O-Matic/default.htm

John

Thanks John.
I left all the words out but I posted some 78 pictures just to show how it goes from teardown to rebuild. Before I started, I bought new steels and fibers, just to have everything on hand. After careful inspection, I realized the OEM parts were better quality than my aftermarket stuff so I re-used the original clutch (fibers and steels) and the original bands (picture #47). This trans had a good casting with no cracks, particularly in the crossover (pics 16-18, 42-43, etc), and it was treated very well by the original owner.

Leaks commonly occur at the shift arms (pictures #57-58) where the 'O' rings harden, crack and break. One nut holds the whole arm assembly together but beware of the detent. Don't let it go flying. If you're careful, you can handle it. Many transmission shops don't bother to change these seals because they are too much of a pain to get to. It only takes a little more effort to do a good job, one that will last.

I will suggest you change your torque converter if yours is the original. They are not expensive. - Dave

[sidewalkman]

Thanks John.
I left all the words out but I posted some 78 pictures just to show how it goes from teardown to rebuild. Before I started, I bought new steels and fibers, just to have everything on hand. After careful inspection, I realized the OEM parts were better quality than my aftermarket stuff so I re-used the original clutch (fibers and steels) and the original bands (picture #47). This trans had a good casting with no cracks, particularly in the crossover (pics 16-18, 42-43, etc), and it was treated very well by the original owner.

Leaks commonly occur at the shift arms (pictures #57-58) where the 'O' rings harden, crack and break. One nut holds the whole arm assembly together but beware of the detent. Don't let it go flying. If you're careful, you can handle it. Many transmission shops don't bother to change these seals because they are too much of a pain to get to. It only takes a little more effort to do a good job, one that will last.

I will suggest you change your torque converter if yours is the original. They are not expensive. - Dave

Thanks Dave. I'm changing the torque converter just because, a guy inspected the bands and the screen says there's no metal, screen was pretty clean. He says the transmission looks good to go, except for the dried out seals. I'll pull it apart this winter, I want to paint the transmission and bell housing and I have access to a parts washer so......

The motor has less than 8K on it, but I'm going to have a look at it at the same time, my engine bay is pretty bad, looks like someone tried to clean it with a caustic solution and it discolored the paint in spots. So I want to pull the motor in any case so 2 birds 1 stone type of thing. Might freshen it up with a hone and rings. As I've said I'm building a driver not a show piece so headers and a mild street cam might be in the wings just for the bit of a lump in the idle and to sound cool driving down the street.