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    #31
    RE: Roof troubles

    >My crease???? After digging out A 1/2 inch of
    >bondo..........there it was. It looks like the classic "I
    >backed into your car by accident" kinda thing. My dad who
    >was a pipe-fitter....told me how to basicly "beat it
    >out"........and I did Now all I have to do is
    >smear just the smallest bit of M2M to hide it forever !!!
    >SAY NO TO BONDO !!! }> Im so close to priming and painting
    >I cant stand it.

    So how did you use that M2M? How does it go on? Can it be used on top of metal that has a rust converter base?

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    • Guest

      #32
      RE: Roof troubles

      Travlin,


      If you want to look at another body repair buletin board, take a look at http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl . There is quite a bit of activity, good comments and quite a few pics of projects.

      If you like to see other cars in various states, there are 2 or 3 people that have posted a lot of pics on their cars they are working on that are pretty amazing. An older Mopar something I can't remember right now( it is pretty far down the list but the guy is doing an amazing job on it), a mid 60's galaxie, and just recently an older BMW (lots of rust repair/restoration on the rockers). Seems like there was a 60's full size Chevy as well.

      Someone just posted about rain gutters on a 50 something Chevy also.....

      I've goten good ideas from then so far.

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      • Guest

        #33
        RE: Roof troubles

        M2M is good on bare shiny metal..........and to fill gaps. You take a "wad" out about the size of a golfball and add 12 drops of the catalyst..........mix well and spread. It sets up REAL FAST........maybe too fast for what you would be doing. If I had your car.....For the roof I would make some sheet metal pieces to put up inside......they dont have to be perfect............just enough to cover the holes. Por-15 makes a super-strong fiberglass filler which I used when I replaced my rockers. Its easier (for me atleast) to work with in that kind of situation. Of course in the dream world you could find sections of an old roof and weld them in..........but you seem to be like me...............a daily driver and $$$$ is an issue with that. Once you have the holes "backed"........its just a matter of filling them up a little at a time until its done. Its almost as if you are icing a cake that has low spots in it. I would use the Por-15 rust proofing system to save whats left of your rails and bad roof sections........and then build them back with the fiberglass . It can be sanded and drilled through for screw holes. Once I replaced my fenders and rockers..............I painted the seams with the por-15 and filled them with the fiberglass..........then sanded. Nobody can tell where it was done. You could do the same things with M2M.............but you have to work faster . First thing is first though.............get every bit of rust out where you will be working and take all paint off in the area down to bare metal. Check out por-15s website. I would have used the M2M on my rocker seams but did not know it existed. Ive used it since to fill some unwanted mirror holes......and to fill in the few low spots left in my fender. Its all up to you and how you veiw your car. For me??? My car is nor was in no way shape or form Concours restoration material.......or a major investment that gets locked away in storage. It was savable...and nostalgic......and will be used for my own pleasure. Ive tried to use the best materials and want it to look nice.......without spending 50,000 for a "frame-off" So.........in short........M2M for the roof (the last thing you want is water running inside)....and the fiberglass in the rail section since its easier to "smear in" and will be easier to put screws in. I hope any of this helps. Hint........anything rusted ......and painted with the por-15 will be VERY strong........enough to use as a base for filling..........and........the fiberglass will go over it........M2M wont.

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        • Guest

          #34
          RE: Roof troubles

          >M2M is good on bare shiny metal..........and to fill gaps.
          ::snipped for brevity::
          >Hint........anything rusted ......and painted with the
          >por-15 will be VERY strong........enough to use as a base
          >for filling..........and........the fiberglass will go over
          >it........M2M wont.

          Thanks 58td -- That helps a lot.

          I bought a product called Rust-X .. ever heard of it? Thought I'd check it out and see if it does what it's advertized to do. With all the rusted areas on my Bird ... I figured I'd have plenty of test material.

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