New wiper moter question.

[Guest]

Thank you Alexsander and JohnG. I may have posed the question wrong. With the supply from the feul pump conected then it only gose up. Then if I turn the switch off they go down. But if I connect the second line ( witch has a vacuum supply) while in the on possition they go down and stay. Remove the second line they go back up. Is there a regulater external of the moter that I maybe able to switch out? Is the second line need a cheak valve? It is part of the wiper washer system That maybe a problem. If you guys still think its the moter I will change it out...Thank you again......Still scaching my head lynski214

[Alexander]

RE: New wiper moter question.

Honestly, I think your wiper motor needs to be rebuilt. There is only the switch on the dash that regulates the wiper motor via a cable.

This diagram shows how the vacuum line to the wiper is supposed to be connected. Instructions for replacing the motor are on the technical part of the main site.

http://www.squarebirds.org/windshield_wiper_motor/ports_wiper_motor.jpg

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[JohnG]

RE: New wiper moter question.

Taking advantage of the drawing Alexander provided, for purposes of debugging the system, take the line he shows that goes to the washer switch and simply plug it. You first want the pump to function on its own (or determine that it can't) so you want to eliminate everything else. Among other things you have no idea how many leaks there are in that line of yours that heads off to the washer switch, nor the switch itself or what comes after it, so you have to begin by isolating the motor itself.

If you can dig up a vacuum gauge, you can put it on the line from the fuel pump and make sure you have something to work with. you should see 12-18 inches.

Between those two, you should then be able to narrow down where the failure lies.

[JBird]

RE: New wiper moter question.

>Taking advantage of the drawing Alexander provided, for
>purposes of debugging the system, take the line he shows
>that goes to the washer switch and simply plug it. You
>first want the pump to function on its own (or determine
>that it can't) so you want to eliminate everything else.
>Among other things you have no idea how many leaks there are
>in that line of yours that heads off to the washer switch,
>nor the switch itself or what comes after it, so you have to
>begin by isolating the motor itself.
>
>If you can dig up a vacuum gauge, you can put it on the line
>from the fuel pump and make sure you have something to work
>with. you should see 12-18 inches.
>
>Between those two, you should then be able to narrow down
>where the failure lies.

When I bought my project car the vacuum pump on the oil pump had been disconnected and the vacuum line rerun to the intake manifold.

The reason for the addition of the vacuum pump on the oil pump was to eliminate the wiper stall when driving up a steep hill. When intake vacuum fell because of the carb butterflys being opened more.

Since the oil pump speed is dependant on engine RPM's, the more power you want usually means a transmission downshift and more RPM's thus increased vacuum uphill.

I now have my original vacuum source on my oil pump but still can not find a shread of information on the type vacuum fitting that screwed into the 430 block just below the driver-side engine mount. I also need info on the correct hoses and their routing to the wiper motor.

I appreciate any help someone may give.

Thanks,