whats involve in moving the motor mounts

[Larry Jones]

When my wife cousin dropped the rebuilt short block in a couple of years ago it was pointed out to me that the engine was right up against the passenger side petcock to drain antifreeze out if need be. Time involved in moving the motor mounts over slightly and the mechanic indicated he would have to put a plug where the petcock is. He also said he would have to jqck up the engine slightly also. I don't neo if he going to replentish the antifreeze also. This is a 62 t-bird Larry

[Yadkin]

I'm not sure why you'd want to drain the antifreeze out of a motor. The stuff can sit in there for decades, as long as it has a 50-50 mix of water and fluid it will stay fresh and green.

The motor mounts bolt (two bolts per mount) to the 45 degree angled portion of the block sides and have a rubber component in them. These are supported by and bolted (one bolt each side) to brackets that make up a 45 degree angle to the chassis mount. The brackets each have one threaded stud pointed vertically down that have centering points on them. These drop into slotted holes set on horizontal plates in the chassis. Two flanged nuts (or nuts and flat washers) fasten the studs to the chassis.

The slots allow about 1/2" side-to-side movement of the engine. Since the engine is bolted to the transmission, the transition mount has a similar side-to-side adjustment. You need to loosen the transmission mounts as well to adjust the engine/ transmission assembly.

I find it very easy to raise the engine off the frame by unbolting the two nuts and setting an 8" length of 2x8 against the front oil pan flange. A low profile reach jack can then be set under the wood and used to raise the assembly about 2" or so until the transmission contacts the underside of the chassis. You can then rock the engine side-to-side by hand, and use wood blocks to secure while you get access to exhaust manifolds or anything else that is shoehorned on the sides of the engine.

[jopizz]

If you need to move the motor toward the driver side just loosen the two motor mount bolts on either side then put a jack with a wood block under the driver side and push the motor with your hand toward that side. There's a flat spot on the block just inside of the oil filter where a small piece of 2X4 will fit. If the motor is too far to one side it will not sit level. Put a level on top of the motor to check it after you move it. I wouldn't recommend trying to loosen the drain plugs in the block though. You may do more harm than good.

John

[Larry Jones]

Found the problem with the racing engine

I just want to thank John and yankin. This is regarding John. Remenber that my car was racinf and you said to check the secondary diaphragm. Well the mechanic is rebuilding the autolite4100 for me. There were othe rissues inside of the carb like the choke wasn't into the exhaust manifold plus the bowel had alitle gas in it because of the maybe defected power valve. So whenever to start to tear into something you find bunches of othr problems too. Plus the carb gasket really needed to be repla
+ce also. Thanks to all for there input on the motor mounts

[Larry Jones]

little metal tag at bottom of carb

What does this small metal tag denote about my autolite 4100
Thanks Larry

[jopizz]

There's a small tag that's usually on top of the carb that has the part number prefix and some other info. The prefix will tell you what year and model it is. I've never seen one on the bottom.

John

[Yadkin]

Don't lose the tag! I saw one on ebay, asking price $99. LOL!

[Larry Jones]

tag on the carb

thank you fellows for your reply. One hundred bucks can go for better uses . Larry