Also what kind of fan shroud would you suggest and how does one improve cooling effectivity?
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It's even worse than that, John...
"High-flow thermostats from Milodon greatly aid the correct functioning of a high-performance cooling system. They're engineered to warm the engine to a proper operating temperature without making it run hot enough to lose power. Also, the "Balanced Sleeve" design equalizes the pressures exerted on the thermostat. This counters the undesired effect of increased flow from a high-volume water pump, which actually tends to hold a stat closed."
Summit price is $14.95. - DaveComment
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I've always used the rebuilt water pumps and have not had any problem with them. With the rebuilt pumps you are pretty much assured of getting the correct housing. With a new pump being made overseas I have no idea how well it will fit.
JohnJohn Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
Thunderbird Registry #36223
jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695
https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htmComment
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you said your water in the expansion tank was only 1/3 from the top. I do not believe you want it any higher than that and indeed may want it lower. Dave and others may want to comment.
As your engine heats all your coolant up, it will expand some. This will put more pressure on the tank , possibly causing leaks in time. Some of this depends on your cap being 13 or 7 psi rated, as well.
If there is a decent buffer of air in the tank, then it will compress, effectively absorbing that increase of coolant volume and making life easier for the tank. Air is much more compressible than liquid antifreeze/water.
As Dave and I have discussed, the old expansion tanks were a modest design and you do not want to cause them to leak by asking too much of them.
I am not sure what the intended or proper level of coolant in the tank is supposed to be but I am willing to be your are fine and might even consider a bit less. If you search thru enough threads in this Forum, you will find discussions of this.1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
http://tbird.info/registry/DataSheet...r~equals~8452)
photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
history:
http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htmComment
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As your engine heats all your coolant up, it will expand some. This will put more pressure on the tank , possibly causing leaks in time. Some of this depends on your cap being 13 or 7 psi rated, as well.
If there is a decent buffer of air in the tank, then it will compress, effectively absorbing that increase of coolant volume and making life easier for the tank. Air is much more compressible than liquid antifreeze/water.
As the coolant contracts after shutdown and cooling, air will be drawn in from the outside through the pressure cap (pressure relieved).
Tank seam failures are common as they are subject to corrosion over the years from non-service of the cooling system. Quality repros are available.
This is why a pressure check of the system and cap is important during a yearly coolant system check.
ADDENDUM
Think of a coolant pressure cap as like the pressure relief valve on your house water heater.Comment
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Originally posted by KULTULZ POST #6
FOMOCO experienced severe overheating problems with the 58/59 BIRD and it was finally addressed on 1960 model run with a heavier radiator, five blade fan and shroud (AC equipped).
-1960 BIRD COOLING SYSTEM UPGRADE(S)-Comment
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One thing I noticed just today when started the cold engine was that the water was bubbling and splashing in the expansion tank even when it was still cold and so it was leaking out of the expansion tank quite heavily through the outlet hose.
Need to mention that the fan belt is still loose (not tightened sofar) and the water level in the tank is about 1/3 from the top. Still not sure if the water ought to bubble and splash in the tank like that...???Comment
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Read this concerning an aluminum radiator selection over a copper/brass radiator-
Chemistry – Aluminum is more vulnerable to electrolytic corrosion than copper/brass because aluminum is a highly reactive metal. If the corrosion inhibitors are used up and the pH of the coolant drops to 7 or below, aluminum becomes a sacrificial anode and is eaten away resulting in radiator seam failure and coolant leak.
NOTE-
The above principle also comes into play with the addition of aluminum intakes, cyl heads and water pumps. The coolant has to be changed more frequently.
An aluminum radiator is much like a girl I knew once in Baltimore- Cheap and Easy...Comment
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The 'smooth top' design flexed too much, even with low pressure, causing cracks and leaks. The top surface is about (10 X 6) 60 square inches. 7psi produces about 400 pounds of pressure on the seams. The tank tries to deform itself into a sphere (a ball).
'Leaking surge tank' is a very common complaint. Another complaint is, after being 'fixed' it doesn't last long before another leak develops. Again, it's in the design.
Ford used the correct materials (copper and brass, soldered with lead). If it were made of aluminum, I couldn't fix it and the tank would probably be tossed. Ford's only mistake was not adding enough strength to compensate for the flexing. I just recently returned JohnG's tank after I added three bronze rods that pierce through both top and bottom of the tank. The rod ends and are soldered with silver alloy for strength. This will stop flexing and should end all future leaks due to cracking seams.
I purposely left the tank unpainted to show all the areas of work and the repair methods I used. The idea is simple; the rods act like a bucket with you standing inside pulling on the handle to lift yourself up.
CLICK HERE to see JohnG's expansion tank.
In the last picture, notice the radiator cap pressure is 13 psi. That exerts about 780 pounds of pressure on the seams. I pressure tested this tank @ 19 psi with no leaks. This kind of system pressure is absolutely necessary to keep the boiling point high. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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you said your water in the expansion tank was only 1/3 from the top. I do not believe you want it any higher than that and indeed may want it lower. Dave and others may want to comment.
As your engine heats all your coolant up, it will expand some. This will put more pressure on the tank , possibly causing leaks in time. Some of this depends on your cap being 13 or 7 psi rated, as well.
If there is a decent buffer of air in the tank, then it will compress, effectively absorbing that increase of coolant volume and making life easier for the tank. Air is much more compressible than liquid antifreeze/water.
As Dave and I have discussed, the old expansion tanks were a modest design and you do not want to cause them to leak by asking too much of them.
I am not sure what the intended or proper level of coolant in the tank is supposed to be but I am willing to be your are fine and might even consider a bit less. If you search thru enough threads in this Forum, you will find discussions of this.Comment
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Maybe your thermostat is missing.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Repro fan shroud available from here- http://www.tbirdparts.com/main.htm
And if not, how effective is the influence of the shroud on the cooling? I'll get the 6-blade fan for sure, but need to be sure that the $200 for the shroud are really worth. Fact is, I will be driving in the hot summer and anything that helps to cool the bird down is good...Comment
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Contact these people- http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/...c22/index.htmlComment
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